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Double Ought

5.8, Trad, 110 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 16 votes
FA: Steve Orthel and Frank Orthel
N Carolina > Moore's Wall > Hanging Garden

Description

A bit thin and sustained for a newer 5.8 leader, but no stopper moves. Make sure you have enough small gear and climb carefully.

Start on a shallow corner angling up and left (it looks more difficult than it is). A very small nut can be used to protect the opening move.

Carefully work the shelf-like holds and occasional cracks, placing such pro as you can. Sling a nice rock horn and continue up, rock left, and work through the lightly overhanging but not outrageous face climbing above, negotiate a tricky small roof (probably the crux) and onto easier ground. Diagonal up and right into a short traverse to a weakness in the larger roof, slinging long through here.

Finagle some sub-optimal gear and crank through the juggy roof at the first slot anyway, savoring the exposure. Not quite as glorious as the Zoo View roof move, but pretty good.

Romp up and right to find a rap station slung around a large boulder under the final monster roof where First In Flight and Super Crimp begin.

Location

On the left side of the face above the steep ascent gully that leads to the Hanging Garden.

Hike up the gully. Leave most of your stuff at the bottom. The base of the route is in a small flat area before a large tree just past the most difficult part of the gully (an exposed 5.1-ish move over a large block).

Protection

Lots of small gear, nothing larger than #1 C4. RPs may be helpful here and there.

Consider anchoring the belayer to the large tree up slope a little since the first moves are a little thin with small pro and a fall could take both on a fatal tumble.

Descent
A single 70m can rap directly from the boulder station into the gully (just below the hard move in gully). I think a 60m might work if you angle back up the gully - if not you can do another rap off the Hodadical Master anchor midway up the face which have been recently updated with new rings.

Alternately, go left and rap down into the Hanging Garden and hike back down the ascent gully.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking at the larger roof from the rappel. Two 60m ropes take you all the way to the bottom from the rap station.
[Hide Photo] Looking at the larger roof from the rappel. Two 60m ropes take you all the way to the bottom from the rap station.
Looking up from the start of Double Ought.
[Hide Photo] Looking up from the start of Double Ought.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Great route. The rappel from the block is the way to go as a 60 meter gets you directly to the base of the climb without the need to angle up the gully. Sep 25, 2016
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.8
[Hide Comment] A high quality romp that would be as popular as the circus area routes if not for the location. Location/exposure is great, just out of the way. Jun 7, 2017
[Hide Comment] Fun but rather odd route. Basically 5.8 climbing skills and 5.9 gear skills required for a comfortable experience. The final roof/slot protects very well if you have good nut skills and take the effort. This is probably the crux for most, so I recommend taking the effort. Aug 2, 2018