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Routes in Red Rocks (Boulder)

Honey Brittle V0 4
Honey Pie V0 4 PG13
JAKS Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lemons and Lime T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
MB 81721 V4 6B
NE Fin 2 V0 4 PG13
North fin arete TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0- 4-
SW fin 3 arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Underthang V1-2 5
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Not I
Page Views: 759 total, 13/month
Shared By: Detrick Snyder on Apr 8, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

If you're dying for a gnarly squeeze on some rough sandstone, this is your crack! One etched tally on the first chockstone is all the evidence of an ascent from who knows how long ago.

P1 (not that it requires a rope): this starts relatively tame (16") with surprisingly solid holds, but then as the first chockstone is neared, it shrinks down to 8". If it weren't for the chossy sandstone as it widens near the top chockstones, this route would receive another star, but as such, the jamming felt a little insecure up there.

P2: this is mostly 3rd class scrambling with one easy 5th move up another small crack that takes you to the top.

Location

On the South side of SW Fin #2 lies a recessed, subtly flaring squeeze chimney with three visible chockstones about 30 feet up. On its East face lies a vertical, green stripe of lichen with yellow stripes on each side of it. The route I took (with a 29" waist) was on the inner side of the first chockstone, but for you wider folk, an exposed variation nearer the outside looks doable.

Protection

A thick T-shirt and some tough pants. One could perhaps sling those chockstones, but why bother?

Photos

Detrick Snyder
Boulder, CO
 
Detrick Snyder   Boulder, CO
 
Dunno how to rate chimneys very well, they're all climbable aren't they? Apr 10, 2013