Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Aaron Stireman, Mickey Sensenbach
Page Views: 605 total · 9/month
Shared By: Josterling on Apr 7, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

One Toprope Bolt on top back up with #4, now sports 4 lead bolts. In Slaters Guidebook called room with a view says its hard 11, easy 12. Felt 11b. Starts on relatively big holds with a nice undercling to get you to a stance to start moving. move up and right onto tiny edges and crimps. Continue that pattern up to right below the bolt and finish with a weird mantle highstep thing.

Location

West summit blocks, In the shaded cave up hill& right from get back loretta

Protection

4 bolts.

Photos

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Serial Crusher
A house
  5.11c
Serial Crusher   A house
  5.11c
Cant think of a more physical slab route around for miles...too bad its so short! Apr 12, 2013
Serial Crusher
A house
  5.11c
Serial Crusher   A house
  5.11c
Powerful, dynamic edging and smearing on high steps and small crimps to a final crux reach for a 'jug.' Ultra classic.

5.11c/d, but a few letters easier for someone with a big reach.

EDITED: Internet video spraying aside, I thought this route really deserved a video, as it is very technical and even dynamic for someone with a normal wingspan. Mickey and Jordan seemed to run up it just fine, and skip all the smaller edges, but for us mere mortals there's a lot more pain and sequencing to finish the route. Here it is:


youtube.com/watch?v=_7BxFxw…

Future edit: I've since gone back and done this route two different ways. If you match your left foot to a left hand at the first bolt is climbs about .11c/d. If you stay far right closer to the edge, .11b is fair. Two different sequences for the start. Apr 19, 2013
Jordan Collins
South Lake Tahoe
Jordan Collins   South Lake Tahoe
That is a nice video. Those little holds are nice to skip with long arms : ) Oct 12, 2013
j moore
Santa Maria
  5.11c/d
j moore   Santa Maria
  5.11c/d
this was a very satisfying route to redpoint, very technical requiring precise footwork the whole way. Nov 4, 2013