[Hide Comment] fun route, but both pitches were very short. i would recommend linking the two for a single pitch. shouldnt be too hard if extended properly. i only placed a .75 to suppliment the bolts on the first pitch (placed above second bolt, just before moving left onto face). if you extend there with a double runner, rope drag shouldnt be too bad. its 5.5..

regarding descent, if you hate carrying two ropes like me, its rrally easy to scramble to the top of badman mezzanine and going down the fourth class chimnney to reach the rappell anchors on the left (north) side. from there its two short raps to the ground (60m rope). this definitely takes a bit longer than just double rope rapping from twinkle toes, but its a fun adventurr scramble and i just hate carrying two ropes. Apr 2, 2018

[Hide Comment] Instead of placing a piece in the corner before stepping up and over (p1), one of the local climbers placed a sling around the flake, then stepped over. Sling was webbed nylon and extended 160cm. Oct 28, 2018

[Hide Comment] Both anchors are now setup for rappel so you can do a diagonal rappel back to the pitch 1 anchor (a little tricky but doable) and then another straightforward rappel from there back to the start. Feb 25, 2020

[Hide Comment] This climb is as good as it gets for a two-pitch 5.5 climb--the rock is relatively clean, solid and exposed. There are three, not four, bolts on pitch 2. Descending is tricky but can be done safely. When rappelling diagonally from the second anchor to the first, the first rappeller should use quickdraws to clip the rope into the first two bolts of pitch 2 to minimize the potential impact of a pendulum and, after arriving at the first anchor, hold onto the rope while the second rappels and cleans the bolts. Dec 17, 2020

[Hide Comment] This was a fun route. Above the second bolt (and running from the bottom), there is a long crack where you have to place gear before stepping left onto the face; if you don't, you'll hit the ground if you fall on the way to the anchor. It wasn't super obvious where to step over and it was hard to see the anchor. I agree with the description that you should not go too high before stepping left (I did that and then had to do an awkward and scary traverse left, basically parallel with the anchor). I didn't see a third bolt between the second and the anchor. The face (you get onto after stepping left) was pretty mossy.

At the top of pitch 2, we only had one 70 m rope. We rappelled down and it did not reach the bottom going straight down from the anchor, but it was easy (and just long enough) to walk over to the start of pitch one (which is maybe 15-20 feet higher than the base directly below the pitch two anchor). Mar 19, 2023