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One Bullet to Many

5.10+, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 29 votes
FA: unknown
Montana > Southwest Region > Paradise Valley > Allenspur > 7-11 Crag
Warning Access Issue: Allenspur Approach DetailsDrop down

Description

A great route that follows a very enjoyable flake up a relatively steep wall. A stick clip would not be a bad idea for the first bolt because a fall would land you in talus. The crux is just getting to that first bolt.

Location

Starts in the middle of the wall just to the right of Jens and Gobi. Your belayer will basically be standing in the trees.

Protection

Bolts to a 3 bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start of One Bullet Too Many<br>
[Hide Photo] Start of One Bullet Too Many

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
[Hide Comment] The start really is hard on this one, almost unnecessarily so. +1 Stick clip even if you are comfortable at the grade. Terrible feet. The rest of the route is golden laybacking.

My friend pulled off a BIG block from the top section of this climb today, right around the anchor-clipping stance (don't worry, wasn't the flake), so be aware of loose rock. We got lucky, but it was a scare.

The upper flake almost imperceptibly flexes. It's not a lot, but it's there. Tread lightly. Jun 24, 2014
Evan Schock
Bozeman, MT
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] you can either statically and very strongly climb up the crack to the left, or get in a frog stance and boulder/throw way hard up and right and slap the slopey ledge and scurry up the flake to clip the 2nd bolt. this flake is DELICATE, i felt vibrations as i walked on it this year.

sitck clip 1st May 3, 2017
Nate K
Bozeman, MT
[Hide Comment] The start on this thing is waaaaay harder than 5.10. From after the first bolt its definitely 10b but getting to the first bolt feels like solid 11+ Apr 18, 2020
Caden Rogers
Bozeman
  5.11a PG13
[Hide Comment] Anyone climbing this route please be aware of the loose flake. If this thing goes. Which it feels like it may it will seriously hurt someone. Have fun and stay safe, upper laybacking is better than flake fest Apr 17, 2021