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Routes in 7-11 Crag

Commie Bastards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dam in the Rain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flake Fest S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
French Connection S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gobis in the Dark S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jens S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Look Around S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Bullet to Many S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quick Tease S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rancho Deluxe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rancho Pequeno S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Stuff S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spur Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellowstone Poseidon Adventures S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 426 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Apr 7, 2013
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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New access to Allenspur climbing Details

Description

A great route that follows a very enjoyable flake up a relatively steep wall. A stick clip would not be a bad idea for the first bolt because a fall would land you in talus. The crux is just getting to that first bolt.

Location

Starts in the middle of the wall just to the right of Jens and Gobi. Your belayer will basically be standing in the trees.

Protection

Bolts to a 3 bolt anchor

Photos

Evan Schock
Bozeman, MT
  5.10c
Evan Schock   Bozeman, MT
  5.10c
you can either statically and very strongly climb up the crack to the left, or get in a frog stance and boulder/throw way hard up and right and slap the slopey ledge and scurry up the flake to clip the 2nd bolt. this flake is DELICATE, i felt vibrations as i walked on it this year.

sitck clip 1st May 3, 2017
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
The start really is hard on this one, almost unnecessarily so. +1 Stick clip even if you are comfortable at the grade. Terrible feet. The rest of the route is golden laybacking.

My friend pulled off a BIG block from the top section of this climb today, right around the anchor-clipping stance (don't worry, wasn't the flake), so be aware of loose rock. We got lucky, but it was a scare.

The upper flake almost imperceptibly flexes. It's not a lot, but it's there. Tread lightly. Jun 24, 2014