Mountain Project Logo

Routes in C Chimney Cliff

If You Don't Like it Leave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seeking Enlightenment T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tears of Gaia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 87 total, 2/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Apr 6, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

An interesting line with a fun first pitch and an engaging second pitch with two distinct cruxes. Pitch 2 tackles the crack system in the prominent groove to the left of the obvious overhanging crack system in the head wall above the P1 anchor. It is possible to climb only Pitch 1 and rappel, though P1 requires at least one piece of gear as a directional unless you want to be a dick to your second (guide says #2 C3, though I found a .5 C4 to be better)

P1 (5.10+): Climb up the slab/face to the first bolt. Progress through the tiers till the third bolt and decode a sequence to exit the roof (crux) to a system of good cracks on the right side of the roof. Work up/right to the fixed anchor. 50'
P2 (5.11-): Step right from the anchor and finesse your way up the slab passing two bolts (crux #1) to a stance below the bulging crack with a horizontal above your head. Execute a boulder sequence to gain the horizontal. Follow the crack as it thins down and make a transition from the tight tips to hands (crux #2). Tech your way up the crack system/corner/groove passing some jugs to easier terrain and a thoughtful move here and there that puts you on a slab with a dead tree and a fixed anchor to the right of the tree. 110'

Location

Start:About 50 ft left of where the approach trail meets the cliff and 150 ft right of Tears of Gaia. Begins under a tiered overhang with three bolts, this is the right-most bolted line in this section.
Descent: I know a single 70 will get you down, I would guess a single 60 would as well. For what it is worth, the guide says to do a double-rope rappel from the top of P2

Protection

P1: Three bolts, two-bolt anchor
P2: Two bolts, two-bolt anchor

Protection: A single rack of BD C3s and C4s to 1" should be adequate. Bring more or less depending on your comfort level.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments