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Routes in Dance Hall of the Dead

Brutal Planet T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Nipples and Busch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cryptic T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Expropigation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grateful Head S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lean Into It S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Servant of the Bones T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smiling Mortician, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed corner to dirty crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed thin hands through bulge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Watusi Afterworld S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 82 total · 1/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Apr 6, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route takes the fairly obvious, thin-hands crack through a bulge that's to the left of Watusi Afterworld.

Start by climbing an easy, vegetated trough below the crack (or the slab to the right), get to a stance at the crack, fire the crack, and mantel when it ends.

Location

To the left of Watusi Afterworld is a corner leading to a dirty crack. This route is to the left of that corner. It's very obvious from the base of the crag. Rappel from the anchor of Watusi Afterworld. A 60m rope is sufficient for the rappel.

Protection

Standard rack. A single set of cams and stoppers should work just fine. A larger piece (#4 or #5 Camalot) may ease your mind when finishing the mantel. Head up and right to the anchors atop Watusi Afterworld (or one could probably top out and descend maybe climber's left).

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Dave Holliday
  5.10
Dave Holliday  
  5.10
This route is not in Gillett's guidebook to the canyon. I can't imagine we did a first ascent since the line is so obvious. If you know the proper name of this route or who put it up, please post up the info. Apr 6, 2013

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