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Routes in The Tool Shed

Brokehold Mtn S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bromancing The Stone S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crying Game, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Don't Ask S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Don't Tell S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eye Of The Tiger S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Foreclosure S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Homme Improvement S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Honeymoon's Over S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Nudes is Good Nudes (Project) S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Oddball S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Repo Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Storming The Castle S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wienie Roast S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
newer project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: JWodraska, JBaker, JShiefman, Dec 2010
Page Views: 1,382 total, 25/month
Shared By: jbak on Apr 5, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Starts at 2 bolts very close together and trends to the right up to the bulls-eye shaped "Eye" feature. Then back left to chaindraw and anchor. Lots of good movement, very sustained.

Jan 8 2016: The hard-to-reach bolt a few feet above and left of the EYE has been pounded in and a new 1/2 incher installed about 2 feet to the right.

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bolts

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jbak
 
jbak  
 
Nice job Christian !! Took some nerve to skip those bolts ! Feb 1, 2016
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.12+
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.12+
Thanks for moving the bolt Jbak. Although I skipped it on my redpoint run, the new location was tons easier to clip on a couple of close runs I had before the send.

Thanks also to Tom & Elke for reinforcing the creaking flake below the "eye". Feb 1, 2016
RyanJohnson
Tucson, Arizona
  5.12c
RyanJohnson   Tucson, Arizona
  5.12c
Thanks Eric. If Dominic and Shefus hadn't made it look so fun I'm not sure I'd have gotten on it. I'm glad I did, a tad small and sharp in spots but very fun. Apr 19, 2014
Dominic Weinstock  
  5.12+
Shefus got it as well.....damn good route. Apr 3, 2014
Nice going Ryan. Wondered where all the chalk on Yard Boss came from when I was there last week. Didn't think anyone ever got on that thing. Apr 3, 2014
Dominic Weinstock  
  5.12+
Ah yes :) thatll do it......nice send ryan.....and nice quick work on yard boss too Apr 3, 2014
RyanJohnson
Tucson, Arizona
  5.12c
RyanJohnson   Tucson, Arizona
  5.12c
Hah! It's more that your ten-foot wingspan allowed you to skip the small snappy holds that I had to use. Mar 26, 2014
Dominic Weinstock  
  5.12+
Damn...how much do you weigh ryan......im 203 and i didnt snap a single hold :) Mar 22, 2014
RyanJohnson
Tucson, Arizona
  5.12c
RyanJohnson   Tucson, Arizona
  5.12c
The holds on this route are quite ... snappy. Had a series of ever-changing beta due to hold loss. Jan 14, 2014
Dominic Weinstock  
  5.12+
Every inch of this route is a blast.....not an unenjoyable move on it!! Jan 13, 2014
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
 
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
 
Elegant edging leads to a high crux and a powerful finish. Definitely a Tucson classic for the grade - as good as Tsunami or Sentenced (if you can overlook the glue...). Nov 12, 2013