Dragon with Matches
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 50 ft|
|Page Views:||60 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Apr 4, 2013|
Access Issue: Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details
Accelerated corrosion that targets stainless steel bolts (SCC) has caused multiple failures, including both anchor bolts on a route that a climber was being lowered off of. Please read the BOLTS note on the main page. You can also help the cause by visiting the Bivy during your stay and giving QX some reds, whites, or if youre feeling generous, some BLUES!
A great alternative to clipping all those bolts! Between Big Rock Falling and Harley Davidson, right in the middle of the Basement area, locate a sweet dihedral with a low roof. Start on the ledge that runs below all of the climbs here. Place a tiny cam (0 Metolius) behind the left-hand flake, then make a big pull to get up onto the face. Continue up til you're ducking below the roof. Good #2 here. Step left, then stem and jam up the crack. Mix up some crack and face climbing to a small overhang, continue through some easy moves on big holds until you can traverse right to the fat Petzl bolts. Optionally, continue to the top via Harley Davidson.