Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: mike carville
Page Views: 1,753 total · 24/month
Shared By: mike carville on Apr 2, 2013 with updates from Refuge Jared
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

climb face through overhang (crux). This climb has serious risk and shouldn't be "attempted" if you're not a confident 5.11 leader. There is a 10-12 foot run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt--a fall very likely means decking and there's a great rock to be impaled on below. The risk is hospitalization. Not worth it if you're not confident that you can ace it. "The holds are all there," but they're not juggy 5.10 moves.

There are 2 large ledges as you ascend. Once standing on the first big ledge you have the 2nd bolt just below your foot. A fall getting onto the second ledge would be decent. Once standing on the second ledge there are a few high risk moves before the clip. You cannot slip up here.

Location

face right of arete. See Emeralds main Page (Photos)

Protection

Stick clip first bolt. Note there is a 10-12 foot run out between 2nd and 3rd bolt. The roof crux on the other hand is marvelously protected.

Photos

Tibo
 
Tibo  
 
Start left and traverse right to the first bolt, or use a stick clip. Great route! Oct 27, 2013
grabski
N California
  5.11b
grabski   N California
  5.11b
As of 11/1/2015, it looks like the hanger on the 5th bolt is missing (the bolt on the prow of the roof). From the ground it appears the bolt is still there and in decent shape.

Anyone know why the hanger was removed? Is the bolt suspect? Nov 2, 2015
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
On 5/2/16 that hanger was replaced. The stud is in excellent condition. I have no idea why the hanger went missing. May 3, 2016
Refuge Jared
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Refuge Jared   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
This climb has serious risk and shouldn't be "attempted" if you're not a confident 5.11 leader. There is a 10-12 foot run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt--a fall very likely means decking and there's a great rock to be impaled on below. The risk is hospitalization. Not worth it if you're not confident that you can ace it. "The holds are all there," but they're not juggy 5.10 moves.

That said, deets: there are 2 large ledges as you ascend. Once standing on the first big ledge you have the 2nd bolt just below your foot. A fall getting onto the second ledge would be decent. Once standing on the second ledge there are a few high risk moves before the clip. You cannot slip up here.

The roof crux on the other hand is marvelously protected. The moves getting there may not be as difficult, but they are not sufficiently protected.

Great climb for sure--every section, every move. But I'm surprised that this section is poorly protected. Maybe the route setter wanted a bold section here, but personally I'd love to see another bolt placed to make the route safer and more accessible. Risk of a scary fall is one thing, but risk of decking from 20 feet is a different deal. If the route setter is into making a change, I'm willing to support generously. Feel free to contact me! May 28, 2017
mike carville
  5.11a/b
mike carville  
  5.11a/b
yes, been meaning for years to rebolt - so no more stick clip or run out and new anchors. will try to get it done next few weeks. not worth getting hurt. cheers, m May 28, 2017
Ales Kobrle
San Jose
  5.11a/b
Ales Kobrle   San Jose
  5.11a/b
High dependent crux. I'm sure it will be harder for short people to pass roof. Jun 4, 2017
Brad J
  5.11b
Brad J  
  5.11b
Mike

If you want we can add a bolt between 2 and 3 when we extend the climb. Seems to me the start is OK with no need for a change, but that's just my opinion.

B Jun 9, 2017
Joe Coover
Turlock, CA
 
Joe Coover   Turlock, CA
 
Great climb! I am on the shorter side, but I felt like clipping the anchors was the crux. Anyone else have issues with this? Jun 25, 2017
Burlen Loring
Albany, CA
  5.11b PG13
Burlen Loring   Albany, CA
  5.11b PG13
Awesome route! Despite spacing, pro is logically placed, cruxes are protected, you have decent stances for all the clips. Sep 17, 2018