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Routes in Barricade Wall

"A Hole In The Wall" (where the men can see it all) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
(a place in france where the) "Naked Ladies Dance" T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
(but they all don't care cause they have) "No Underwear" T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Zac Warren, Roy Suggett, Pat Curry, and Jim Mathews
Page Views: 1,832 total · 31/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Apr 2, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This long line on great rock goes as a lie-back or straight in, up almost vertical rock. There are a couple of rests but the crux is just not running out of steam! This is so much fun it is a shame it is so far off... or not.

Location

As of 3/30/13 first route on the Barricade Wall (Left to Right).

Protection

One #1, three #3s, four #4s, two #5s, and two #6s along with a set of Tricams. On second thought, bring all the #4s you can gather! This line sucks them up like no other! Something to clip the bolts at the top.

Photos

Roy Suggett  
 
Liebackers may drool but they do rule! Aug 5, 2014
BSU_Zac
 
BSU_Zac  
 
Great route and a great find from roy....I'll say it again though; to hell with the lie back, the crack jams beautifully on deep fists and arm bars. Apr 4, 2013
Roy Suggett  
 
Pat hopes that everyone gets his 9+ joke but you will curse his very name before you get half way through this demanding line! Apr 3, 2013
Patsy
  5.9+
Patsy  
  5.9+
Keep a sharp eye out for good pockets too. Apr 3, 2013
Patsy
  5.9+
Patsy  
  5.9+
Super route, best of the three. Roy is a visionary, he spotted the wall. This route eats gear up. 5.9++. Two pluses on that nine.k

I would suggest jamming it and powering through the tough sections with a lieback, if you try to lieback the whole thing you're liable to flame out. Apr 3, 2013