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Ride the Wave

5.11b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 33 votes
FA: Tim Toula, John Kane, and James Garrett, November 2006
Utah > W Desert > Confusion Range > Ibex > S Corridor > Holey Moley Wall

Description

A nice, free-flowing sport line up the backside of the Holey Moley Wall. Begin by laying off a wavering, thick crack feature and follow the steep line of bolts towards the route's crux at a bulge. Finish the line using a few solid flakes and deep edges. A mild run-out up a trough ends the line at a two bolt chain anchor. A fine line with a fair amount of pump! A great warm-up for the other routes at the wall.

Location

At the end of the Holey Moley Wall, on the right side, around the corner from Rollercoaster.

Protection

Seven bolts to a chain anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mary Morgan on-sighting
[Hide Photo] Mary Morgan on-sighting

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David LeBaron
Grantsville,UT
  5.11
[Hide Comment] This route is fabulous. Every time I repeat it, Im psyched. A must do for people sampling sport routes at Ibex area. Also a good warm-up for the harder ones. Oct 3, 2016
Leron
  5.11c PG13
[Hide Comment] First Bolt is rusting out. The rest of the bolts look good although I found the clipping stances to be strange on several. This was a typical Ibex climb in that the bolting is spaced a bit far by today's standard. With the wall behind you this feels extra sketchy. That being said the grippy quartzite and off-balance liebacking make this a fun and unique climbing experience. Apr 2, 2017
Past User
[Hide Comment] Man this route could use a re-engineerin job! The bolter could not have chosen worse places to put many of these bolts. That's actually what impressed me most about this climb. It's not so much that the bolts were spaced-out, it's that the bolter seems to have been spaced out. Apr 20, 2019
aschmidt
 
[Hide Comment] I thought bolt placement was fine and the bolts are closer together than the typical Ibex route (except the final easy runout that could probably be protected by a 1.25" cam.) The first bolt is pretty rusty, but since you are securely stemming in the chimney at this point, I wasn't too concerned (and you could back it up with a cam if you were worried about it.) A fun, steep route with big holds. What's not to like? Nov 8, 2021