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Routes in Test Pilots Buttress

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backdoor Man T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Co-Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakes of Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Focus T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Gimme three steps... T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kennedy Space Port T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kosmonauts T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocket Science T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Space Monkey T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Test Pilots S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weight and Balance Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Z Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 585 total, 10/month
Shared By: nbrown on Apr 1, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

An interesting climb with a highly technical start - what I like to call "old school", followed by an excellent headwall finish on amazing holds. Look for a tricky kneebar at bolt 2.

Climb the ramp feature up and right past 2 bolts (and the crux - 11d/12a) to jugs; protect the second well here for the crux below. Make an easy traverse right to a stance below the short but awesome headwall (11) and 2 final bolts. Climb past them to a ledge and an anchor.

Location

Starts just right of "Backdoor Man".

Protection

Light rack up to hand size

Photos

nbrown
western NC
nbrown   western NC
Thanks to the guys who did some work leveling out the ground at the start! Apr 22, 2013