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drone attack

WI5 M7+, Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Dave Rone
International > N America > Canada > Ontario > Ontario Ice & M… > LAKE SUPERIOR W… > Orient Bay Ice… > 3. Ice Palace

Description

A fun route on excellent rock and steep ice. Climb past 9 bolts to a ledge about 80' up, where you'll find a bolted anchor. It's a bit cruxy from the 5th to the 6th bolt, where the parallel-sided crack widens, and the feet get thin, and then again gaining the ledge. Move across the ledge to the right, and climb overhanging and then vertical ice, finishing to the right of the trees above.

An alternate finish continues up the well-featured rock face (small stoppers, C3's, C4's to 1.5") above the ledge to its end, then move right and finish on easy ice.

Location

From the road, follow the trail into the Ice Palace for 15-20 minutes, passing the drainage slope for 10% Real, et al. A few minutes later you'll see the big ice of Remember the Day up to the left, at the top of the second drainage slope. The route follows the nose of rock immediately left of the start for Remember the Day.

Protection

Nine bolts to the ledge, 4-6 screws for the ice. Stoppers and cams for the alternate finish. Belay and rappel from either the Ranxerox Tangent or Remember the Day anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Getting through the crux.  Good tools but poor feet.
[Hide Photo] Getting through the crux. Good tools but poor feet.
Just getting started
[Hide Photo] Just getting started
Getting set up for the crux.
[Hide Photo] Getting set up for the crux.
Climb the blunt arĂȘte left of the ice to a ledge.  Then step to the right and climb the steep ice wall.
[Hide Photo] Climb the blunt arĂȘte left of the ice to a ledge. Then step to the right and climb the steep ice wall.