Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 1st Bend Crag

Roadside Attraction T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Glen Schuler, Mark Milligan, and Wayne Smith
Page Views: 374 total · 6/month
Shared By: b hof on Mar 29, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Start out by climbing a water polished face past 4 bolts to a crack system, get a good rest, continue up a hand crack to where it starts thinning down to fingers, undercling to a layback section, and fire your way up the crack to a good rest. The crack ends, then face climb past 1 more bolt and to the anchors. The crux is in the bolted line, but if you're new to the crack game, the undercling/layback section might feel harder. I first climbed this 4 years ago and remember there being ball bearings in the crack section, and last spring I got on it again and it had cleaned up nicely.

Location [Suggest Change]

If looking up at the crag from the road, this route is to the right of the massive roof on right face of a right-facing corner.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Draws, nuts, and single rack of cams from #0.3 to #3 Camalots, doubles in fingers are optional. Caution, a 60m will BARELY get you down, a 70m rope is recommended.

Photos

- No Photos -
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
Hey b, glad you liked this thing! I remember being pleasantly surprised how good this route turned out. Long and pumpy in the upper crack section. We never named it, but it really does deserve one - seeing that it is 50' from the road, let's call it Roadside Attraction. One minor correction, the Wayne on the FA team is my good friend Wayne Smith. I have never had the pleasure of putting up a route with Mr. Montoya, maybe someday.

Cheers May 6, 2016

More About Roadside Attraction

Printer-Friendly