Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Nelson Lunsford
Page Views: 1,249 total · 14/month
Shared By: b hof on Mar 29, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal falcon nesting closures Details

Description

The home guide I have says this route is "5.11 R serious trad" and has kept me from getting on this for years. Maybe I stopped short before the 5.11 R section by going to the first anchors I saw (and on route), which are for Mike Johnson's 5.12b route to the right. Either way, this route deserves more traffic and should clean up nicely.

This route is easily identified by a continuous crack with a 2' roof with a hand crack going through it 15' off the ground followed by tight hands and 2 pods and then a thin section. Start with a tricky move getting established in the crack which becomes tight hands. Work your way towards the roof stemming and smearing, place a high piece, and jam awesome hands out the roof. After the roof, the crack starts pinching down to tight hands. After this, you come to a big hands/fist pod then the crack pinches down shortly and then opens up to a 2nd wider pod which is fists/off fists (#4 Camalot). With some trickery, there is a great no hands rest available to help scope out the thin section. Make delicate moves above the pod to an okay stance, and wiggle in some thin gear (small nuts/cam). Make another tenuous move or 2 towards an awesome lock and a big move to the jug. From here, place a bomber #0.5 Camalot, and make fun face moves up and right to the anchors.

Location

When heading to the Tanner Dome Complex the first wall you come to is the Civil Wall, at the trail junction take a right. You will pass 30,000 Casualties and .54 Chunk 'o' Lead. Nathan Forest is the first crack system after .54 Chunk 'o' Lead.

Protection

A single set of nuts and cams #0 purple Metolious to a #4 Camalot, doubles in #1 to #3 optional. A 60m rope.

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