Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 467 total · 7/month
Shared By: Colin Parker on Mar 27, 2013
Admins: Colin Parker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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The namesake problem for this boulder, this is a really unique and fun problem. Start as far back on the right side of the boulder as you can, using a couple handjams underneath the cap. Work your way to the left using hand and fist jams until you come to a spot where the crack widens beyond fists. At this point you transition to using the underside of the cap as an undercling and continue smearing. Finish up the mantle between the lobes or continue to the crack for the 'Full Frontal' variation (V1).


Right side of the lobotomy boulder




Sean Maher
Santa Barbara, CA
Sean Maher   Santa Barbara, CA
Fun problem for the tradsters out there. I did it the other way round, starting with a thin mantle below the roof on the left side and jamming around to the right. Jul 19, 2016