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Smooth Sailing (aka Lloyd Would Have Liked It)

5.10a, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 64 votes
FA: unknown
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Pilot Mountain > 12. Big Arete

Description

Follow the face up a bolt line past a tree growing up in a crack. Surmount the ledge, and climb the right face of the arete up to the crux section, a blank seeming face where a couple 5.10 crimps and slopey feet will let you go for the awesome incut top out. There are brand new (courtesy of the Carolina Climber's Coalition) bolts and rings to lower from.

Location

To the right side of the ledge 20' above the trail.

Protection

Sport, (8? bolts...bring adequate draws).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Upper section
[Hide Photo] Upper section
Louis about to pull the crux
[Hide Photo] Louis about to pull the crux
First few quickdraws at bottom of route.
[Hide Photo] First few quickdraws at bottom of route.
Lloyd would have liked it.  Little brother on TR.  Very fun line.  Crux is at the top , say last 15'.  Id give the rest about a 5.7ish.
[Hide Photo] Lloyd would have liked it. Little brother on TR. Very fun line. Crux is at the top , say last 15'. Id give the rest about a 5.7ish.
Lower section
[Hide Photo] Lower section

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] I believe the name of this route is actually "Smooth Sailing". Oct 22, 2013
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] The trees that used to harangue this route have been chopped. A lot sunnier now, but also a lot cleaner. A very good route. Apr 4, 2016
A.J. Rimes
Charlotte, NC
[Hide Comment] DANGER!!! As of yesterday,t he last bolt before the end of the climb is hand loose! My friend had to use a bail biner(which he rappelled to get back). If you have climbed this route, you know that the last few moves are the hardest, and you can take a pretty big whipper if you fall. I am unfamiliar with the re-bolting process, but I have contacted the CCC in hopes they can fix it or contact someone who can. If anyone else knows who I can contact to get this climb reboltted, please let me know! Apr 14, 2017
J G
Nevada
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] The crux is fun and always gets my attention. Find some crimps and trust your feet. Mantling to top out the cliff adds a little more fun.

Note: Be mindful of creaky holds when climbing up to clip the crux bolt. Apr 27, 2018
[Hide Comment] One of the best routes at Pilot. Over-bolted for sure. Much easier than 5.10a (maybe 5.9-) Nov 10, 2019
Daniel Feivor
Roanoke
 
[Hide Comment] There was a slightly loose hollow sounding block as of 11/20/19 on the lower section (before the ledge) in shallow crack. It's one of the better holds, but I'd be careful about pulling too hard on it. All the crimps and flakes near the top seemed solid to me. Nov 21, 2019
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb, there are 2 places(ledges) to take rest's if you have low endurance, the ending is the only 5.10 bit. Sadly as of 5/24/2020 I broke a bit of a big hold(juggy slopper) at the end so it is a little more spicy maybe like 5.10c/d move but the fall is like 8' max. Awesome climb as always! May 28, 2020
Ian C
NC
 
[Hide Comment] the final crux sequence to gain the anchor felt harder than 10a. the climbing below is significantly easier. Dec 7, 2020