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Routes in Big Arete

Anchors Away S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bet Ya Can't Eat Just One TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hunger Strike TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lloyd Would Have Liked It S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Man Overboard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,356 total, 41/month
Shared By: Noah.J on Mar 26, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

Follow the face up a bolt line past a tree growing up in a crack. Surmount the ledge, and climb the right face of the arete up to the crux section, a blank seeming face where a couple 5.10 crimps and slopey feet will let you go for the awesome incut top out. There are brand new (courtesy of the Carolina Climber's Coalition) bolts and rings to lower from.

Location

To the right side of the ledge 20' above the trail.

Protection

Sport, (8? bolts...bring adequate draws).

Photos

I had a look at the crux bolt today and while the hanger is loose, the bolt itself seems solid, albeit in potentially friable rock (at least on the surface).

As for the route, lackluster climbing ends on a ledge under a beautiful white face. Climb up through nice moves on good holds to the crux. Make an cryptic move left and keep it together through some small crimps before gaining the juggy clifftop. This climb would be 4 stars if this section were longer.

Also, I know it's Pilot, but it's really lame that someone chopped that tree.


UPDATE: As of 11/14/17 I tightened the bolt as much as I could with a hand wrench. Sep 19, 2017
A.J. Rimes
Charlotte, NC
A.J. Rimes   Charlotte, NC
DANGER!!! As of yesterday,t he last bolt before the end of the climb is hand loose! My friend had to use a bail biner(which he rappelled to get back). If you have climbed this route, you know that the last few moves are the hardest, and you can take a pretty big whipper if you fall. I am unfamiliar with the re-bolting process, but I have contacted the CCC in hopes they can fix it or contact someone who can. If anyone else knows who I can contact to get this climb reboltted, please let me know! Apr 14, 2017
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10a
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10a
The trees that used to harangue this route have been chopped. A lot sunnier now, but also a lot cleaner. A very good route. Apr 4, 2016
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.10-
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.10-
I believe the name of this route is actually "Smooth Sailing". Oct 22, 2013