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Routes in King Pins

Air Guitar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bob's Your Uncle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Catnip T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Code of the Bolt Warrior T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis' Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hakuna Matata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Forget Your Friends. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red M&Ms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sex With Vegetables T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shady Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Grill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stroken' the Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Death Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's my fucking crack pipe? T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa. August 1989
Page Views: 857 total, 15/month
Shared By: Josh Baxley on Mar 25, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Starts at the crack to the right of Shady Chimney. Mostly hand holds at the beginning, up to a decent hand crack. You can stem on Shady Chimney at first crux.
End of the route has an interesting pair of finger cracks and large step blocks.

Location

The crack opposite of Shady Chimney. Optional variation links up to Corner Pockets after the pillar.

Protection

You might be able to squeeze a BD #4 in there, but gear to 3" is fine

Photos

Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
A friend and I took care of it on a deserted mid week day. It was bigger than it looked. Definitely would have hurt!

Also didn't take much to dislodge it. Oh Vantage! Oct 19, 2016
Marlin Thorman
Spokane, WA
  5.9
Marlin Thorman   Spokane, WA
  5.9
Big flake halfway up is now gone as of Sept 2016. It looks recent too....hopefully it didn't pull out with someone on it. Sep 24, 2016
Sean Maher
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Sean Maher   Santa Barbara, CA
 
great climbing but beware of the big loose flake marked with an X half way up. It moves if you mess with it Sep 7, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
this route gets my vote as one of the best 5.9 at Vantage, it is better and more interesting than Air Guitar.
double up from BD .5- #2, crux after big ledge is finger size on left and tight hands on right. Mar 20, 2014
Kyle Pease
Missoula, MT
 
Kyle Pease   Missoula, MT
 
I found it plenty safe on gear to 3". Trundled several large blocks 10' below and left of chains chalked with an X a couple weeks ago. The lower chalked piece 1/2 way up route is very well keyed in, I spent some time seeing if it could slide out, to no avail. It is easy to climb by it without using it however. Jun 14, 2013