Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Brian Derrig
Page Views: 830 total · 9/month
Shared By: Clint Walker ATX on Mar 25, 2013
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, mattm

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Sign Waiver @ trail head. Details

Description

Route starts under 45-degree nose. Gain the obvious hold then start up the lower nose with some rather sequency moves. Lower moves are V4. Fluid movements from here with a cryptic.

It's called Wasp Arete for a reason. Watch out for small wasp nests near the 3rd bolt along the underside of the small ledge features here.

Location

Located on the left area of the main wall. Logical arete feature with 45-degree nose at bottom and smaller nose near top. Chains are short, one-link pieces.

Protection

First bolt is a little sketchy given exposed position. Bring a pad or stick clip the first for added protection on the start. Two remaining bolts are safe.

EDIT: This route is still chipping due to the flakyness of the stone and now appears to have lost a few of its more decent holds. The first bolt used to have a pretty good rest-hold that is now missing. The second bolt is still "safe" but given the frequency of chipping I bet that doesn't last long. The third bolt now feels much much harder to reach as well. Consider top roping this route by either climbing the 10b to the left of it or walking to the top and tossing the rope over.

Photos