Avg: 3.6 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 265 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim Scott, Tim Dolan, Dave DesChamps|
|Page Views:||1,907 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Clay Mansfield on Mar 22, 2013|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
Pitch 1 has a few bolts. Climb the path of least resistance, with cruxes at the bolts. Eventually gain a curving weakness, which will guide you up to a bolted belay atop a giant chickenheaded flake. 165 ft. A great pitch.
Pitch 2 also has a few bolts, gained by traversing right. There is thin and technical climbing up to and past the 2nd bolt. Pitch finishes with fun connect the dots chickenhead slingin' and climbin'. 100 ft. Gear anchor.
Scramble to summit and take the usual rap down the other side of the Whale Dome.
Stand under Dem Bones, then move right 15 feet and look down and right and you will see a blunt arete with some bolts on it. This is the approach pitch and I think goes at 5.9.
We decided to climb a few more direct approach pitches instead, starting just right of Dem Bones and essentially gunning for the big tree on the sloping ramp. From the tree, chimney up a ways then drop down through a tunnel and it will spit you out on a flat ledge. First bolt is way out right, up a blunt arete.