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Routes in Whale Dome

Blood Brother T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Call Me Ishmael T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dem Bones T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Harpoon Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
South Face Direct Finish // Mobius Strip T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trojan, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 265 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Scott, Tim Dolan, Dave DesChamps
Page Views: 1,420 total, 25/month
Shared By: Clay Mansfield on Mar 22, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

A 2-pitch line up the northeast face of Whale Dome with awesome position and climbing, and bullet Cochise granite.

Pitch 1 has a few bolts. Climb the path of least resistance, with cruxes at the bolts. Eventually gain a curving weakness, which will guide you up to a bolted belay atop a giant chickenheaded flake. 165 ft. A great pitch.

Pitch 2 also has a few bolts, gained by traversing right. There is thin and technical climbing up to and past the 2nd bolt. Pitch finishes with fun connect the dots chickenhead slingin' and climbin'. 100 ft. Gear anchor.

Scramble to summit and take the usual rap down the other side of the Whale Dome.

Location

Starts on the far (up drainage) side of the huge sloping ramp on the east side of Whale Dome (The big ramp that the prominent flake of Blood Brother starts off). There are few ways to get there:

Stand under Dem Bones, then move right 15 feet and look down and right and you will see a blunt arete with some bolts on it. This is the approach pitch and I think goes at 5.9.

We decided to climb a few more direct approach pitches instead, starting just right of Dem Bones and essentially gunning for the big tree on the sloping ramp. From the tree, chimney up a ways then drop down through a tunnel and it will spit you out on a flat ledge. First bolt is way out right, up a blunt arete.

Protection

Stoppers, brass nuts never a bad idea, singles of cams up to #3 BD. I placed a #4 BD b/c I had one, but it's not necessary. ~12 draws.

Photos

Dj telle
Tucson, Arizona
  5.11b/c R
Dj telle   Tucson, Arizona
  5.11b/c R
Another badass route up the whale. we started up the arete then traversed over to the "golden reach" chickenhead ( I actually dynoed it) then traversed the horizontal crack to the base. 1st pitch was very good, the first bolt is way up there and there's some stout moves to get to it. A fall before this bolt would not be good. The rest of the 1st had some more 11- stuff.
However, the second pitch is not 11- at all. Either a hold broke at the crux or your 6'5, but the moves are still very technical and at least solid .11 slab. Definitely a lot of spicy climbing on this one.
A classic

edit: its been confirmed that hold(s) did break off at the crux section on pitch 2 Jan 23, 2017
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
As always, thanks for the great topos TooFast!

If only there were a link whereby one could contribute to the TooFast memorial fund to show their appreciation for all the years of free topos... Jan 18, 2017
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Here's a link to download a draft PDF topo with Dem Bones, Blood Brother, and Call Me Ishmael on it. Enjoy!

toofasttopos.com/free/whale… Jan 16, 2017
bikesrockswaves
Tucson, Arizona
 
bikesrockswaves   Tucson, Arizona
 
There are a couple approach pitches, described which will by in the next Toofast Topo's edition. P1. Start just right of Dem Bones, moving up and right, short pitch to base of dihedral, belay. P2. Leave corner immediately, climbing face cracks to face to glorious arete with 2 bolts up high, belaying at top ledge. P3. Move back right to next corner over, then 'Golden Reach' slab move to get onto awesome chicken heads; continue up to horizontal crack, traverse right to Glory Hole. Either belay here, then cave through tight uteral and make right to right most low ledge (80' below Blood Brother start) OR lead around horizontal crack to ledge on right, belay there. P4 and P5 proceed up and right from there. You'll see first bolt a short traverse out right and up. Proceed on up from there, two long pitches w/ a couple bolts per pitch, occasionally run out, but hard spots protected well. P4 ends at 2 bolts. P5 has a balancey traverse right to a chickenhead overhang, then onto slab finish. LOVED IT. Mar 6, 2015
Andrew Megas-Russell   Tucson, AZ
I agree with Clay's comment regarding "cruxes being at the bolts." The protection was right where you need it. The first pitch was long and had mega classic moves and position! Second pitch had thin and powerful moves!

From my perspective (being 5'8" tall) I thought some of the crux moves might have been slightly hight dependent and I may have had to do a few more intermediate moves than the taller person might, but isn't that how climbing is?... a little different for everyone! Apr 9, 2013