Type: Trad, 265 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Scott, Tim Dolan, Dave DesChamps
Page Views: 1,907 total · 24/month
Shared By: Clay Mansfield on Mar 22, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

A 2-pitch line up the northeast face of Whale Dome with awesome position and climbing, and bullet Cochise granite.

Pitch 1 has a few bolts. Climb the path of least resistance, with cruxes at the bolts. Eventually gain a curving weakness, which will guide you up to a bolted belay atop a giant chickenheaded flake. 165 ft. A great pitch.

Pitch 2 also has a few bolts, gained by traversing right. There is thin and technical climbing up to and past the 2nd bolt. Pitch finishes with fun connect the dots chickenhead slingin' and climbin'. 100 ft. Gear anchor.

Scramble to summit and take the usual rap down the other side of the Whale Dome.

Location

Starts on the far (up drainage) side of the huge sloping ramp on the east side of Whale Dome (The big ramp that the prominent flake of Blood Brother starts off). There are few ways to get there:

Stand under Dem Bones, then move right 15 feet and look down and right and you will see a blunt arete with some bolts on it. This is the approach pitch and I think goes at 5.9.

We decided to climb a few more direct approach pitches instead, starting just right of Dem Bones and essentially gunning for the big tree on the sloping ramp. From the tree, chimney up a ways then drop down through a tunnel and it will spit you out on a flat ledge. First bolt is way out right, up a blunt arete.

Protection

Stoppers, brass nuts never a bad idea, singles of cams up to #3 BD. I placed a #4 BD b/c I had one, but it's not necessary. ~12 draws.

Photos