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FA: Ted Lanzano, 2008
> Dark Side
> Miscellaneous Problems
Although perhaps a little contrived, this problem is extremely enjoyable and has lots of cool movement. Start down low on two obvious underclings on the left side of the boulder. Using a few good crimps, go up and right to a sharp crimp rail. Then go up to a sloper and make a committing move up and left to the jug. The left arete is off. This is a really fun problem!
This is on the Incuts Overhang, on the same boulder as Deeper Cuts near to The Pillar (V2) and just uphill from Nook's Rock.
A pad or two. A spotter is nice for the last move to protect against a slam into the rock behind.
[Hide Photo] If you are tall and not very flexible, this is for sure the beta that I recommend. Throw your right leg up into this heel toe cam. This takes a ton of weight off and makes the problem a lot easier.…
[Hide Photo] What a great problem. Sharp crimps on a steep face. Super fun. www.olmecapparel.com. @olmecapparel @cvalencia31