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Valhalla
V7-,
Boulder,
Avg: 3.2 from 217
votes
FA: Ted Lanzano, 2008
Colorado
> Boulder
> Flagstaff
> Dark Side
> Incuts Overhang
Description
Although perhaps a little contrived, this problem is extremely enjoyable and has lots of cool movement. Start down low on two obvious underclings on the left side of the boulder. Using a few good crimps, go up and right to a sharp crimp rail. Then go up to a sloper and make a committing move up and left to the jug. The left arete is off. This is a really fun problem!
Location
This is on the Incuts Overhang, on the same boulder as Deeper Cuts near to The Pillar (V2) and just uphill from Nook's Rock.
Protection
A pad or two. A spotter is nice for the last move to protect against a slam into the rock behind.
[Hide Photo] If you are tall and not very flexible, this is for sure the beta that I recommend. Throw your right leg up into this heel toe cam. This takes a ton of weight off and makes the problem a lot easier.…
[Hide Comment] Just went back and repeated this problem using the heel toe cam beta. Between this and the new really good crimp near the right arete (something must have broken to form this?), Valhalla is probably closer to V5. It felt much easier than Stranger than Friction (V6) and a few grades easier than Cryptic Magician (V7) that I sent in the previous hour before climbing this.
May 20, 2020
[Hide Comment] Make sure you thoroughly stretch/warm up the hamstrings if you’re using the heel toe cam beta. Tore the hamstring using this beta.
Jun 24, 2020
[Hide Comment] A classic but the softest V7 I’ve ever pulled on. To reference it other Flagstaff climbs, Valhalla is easier than Center Left.
May 14, 2021
[Hide Comment] Felt ~1 grade harder than the Curmudgeon to me (though I know that's another softie), but maybe I had bad beta for the start.
Oct 6, 2021
[Hide Comment] I thought this was harder than First Overhang, Curmudgeon, and Battaglia's Bottom, so V6-7 probably fair for this. I didn't use the heel toe cam, because it looks like you can skip the entire crimp traverse that way (see Paul's video), and what would be the fun in that?
Dec 29, 2021
[Hide Comment] A wonderful problem. I am not sure how long it will be there though. I noticed today that the start move undercling for your left hand flexes and wiggles a little when you pull on, and I'm only 155 lbs. I noticed as well that the top crimp of the triangular shark fin also flexes a little. I hope they don't break, but I worry it is inevitable, especially given the traffic it sees.
May 2, 2023
[Hide Comment] A very fun and enjoyable boulder problem. It has hard moves between crimps which gradually get better and better as you get higher up and culminate in a big throw and swing on a victory jug. I didn't want to like this problem, because the grade is inflated, but I love it nonetheless. I'm just a curmudgeon about grades, I guess. It is roughly a 6, though feels harder than Curmudgeon and First Overhang. I think it's about the same as Hagan's Wall in difficulty, and I gave that a 6+, so I give this too a 6+.
Aug 13, 2023
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