Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Gendarmes

DZ's Electrifying Entrance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flight of Icarus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shortcut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dan Carter and David Johnson
Page Views: 216 total, 4/month
Shared By: Dan Carter on Mar 22, 2013
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Pitch 1: Chossy chimney. Can be soloed but it's airy and loose.
Pitch 2: This is the pitch that drew me to the climb. It is a hand crack with an off width to the right of it. One can see the crack from the saddle. When the crack runs out move around left to some slab and more crack to a belay on a large ledge.
Pitch 3: We went up the left crack. The rock is not so good and the climbing is kind of tricky but fun. The top has like a South Dakota Needles summit perch.

Location

The route begins on the lowest section on the west side of the Gendarmes. It can be seen from the saddle. Look for the chimney and the hand crack.

We left some webbing to rap the route but one could also walk off or setup a better rappel. The first rappel is below the actual summit block and the second is on the west face. Feel free to use the gear up there if you want to move it to a better location.

Protection

A double rack worked fine. All sizes. Could probably do it with a single rack.

0 Comments