[Hide Comment] Super cool route. Worth checking out if you are in the area and want something more adventurous. The belay ledge is at the top of a ~12ft chimney with a massive chock stone stuck in it. Climbing the chimney isn't hard but it could be unnerving for a 5.8 climber since its unprotected. Sep 7, 2016

[Hide Comment] Finding the route is somewhat tricky. After passing First Kiss and then French Kiss, if you follow the next major wall up a rough and loose trail, it eventually feeds into a small series of ledges with a bush. Alternatively if you follow the wall from French Kiss up past The Climb, it eventually also reaches Groove Thang. Requires some mantling to reach the route, be careful on the descent. Mar 12, 2017

[Hide Comment] Excellent route and hidden gem of Smith. We did this because First Kiss was jammed on a nice fall morning. Climb two short chimneys up to the belay stance then start the sport route. The route has some excellent stemming and lots of holds. The anchors at the top can be hard to find and they're not visible from the last bolt. Go up a little and to the right (like you're climbing into the bowl) and peer around the corner/bulge - they're there. Lots of kitty litter and loose rock, especially on the ledges. Wear a helmet! You can use a 70m rope to rappel all the way down through the two short chimneys you climbed up to the belay stance. I highly recommend this as the downclimb would be sketchy... Oct 20, 2018

[Hide Comment] After reaching anchors, we noticed more bolts going up a scramble area - just wondering if you can walk off this on Misery RIdge trail? That would have been nice to avoid the scree down to the trail. Anyone know? Nov 15, 2018

[Hide Comment] Super fun route once you find it. A bit difficult, unprotected, jump-up through a hole, getting up to the belay ledge but worth the effort. Great route to do in the summer as it’s in the shade until about 3pm. Very interesting worth-while single pitch sport route! Not sure if you can walk out but it looked like it might be possible. Aug 29, 2019

[Hide Comment] Very thankful for the previous comments on beta to find this route; it was very helpful. This route gets its stars from the awesome views of the tube and its stemming movement. My partner and I left all our gear at the bottom of the hole. I recommend climbing shoes or approach shoes for climbing through the hole and getting up to the belay area; I was sketched out in Keen sandals and a rope bag. Be really careful of the loose rock. At the push to the top of the belay area, there is a watermelon sized rock nestled in with the others and it seems very likely to tumble down with foot pressure. I agree with Nathan on rappelling all the way down through the hole with a 70m rope once everyone is done climbing. Pulling the rope from there obviously brings down loose rock but the rope pulls through easily.

Onto the actual climb: The first bolt is pretty high which also might be unnerving for the 5.8 climber. You scramble and stem up the slab and then move a little vertically in the tube. The best stemming from the bottom to the 4th bolt where the tube is wide and gorgeous. My partner and I were mystified on the proper sequence of moves to the 3rd bolt, and ended up above it before clipping. Upwards, the climbing skirts to the left, while the backside of the tube is just a beautiful entryway for the sunshine. Skip the hold with bird poop. Rap rings at the top. I certainly recommend this route! Sep 17, 2019

[Hide Comment] Go right at the second bolt, rap to the bottom of the scramble with a 70m Nov 14, 2021

[Hide Comment] A full 60m just barely reaches the ground below the chock stone from the anchors. Was happy to not have to down climb those two holes before the belay ledge. Oct 8, 2023

[Hide Comment] Just to put a 2025 post up, this still goes! Unlike most at Smith, and very fun. Go right or left at the second bolt! Agree with the description that the rock holding the last few bolts on route is questionable. 5 days ago