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Routes in Morning Slab

Arete, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Clarion T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Reveille/Aftermath T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Geoff Sutton (solo), 1940s
Page Views: 35 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Mar 20, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

A beautiful climb up the blunt arete at the right of the Morning Slab, probably the best route at its grade in the Gorge. The rock has got very polished at parts, which is especially evident at the crux about 2/3 of the way up. The slick rock has caused climbers to attempt to bypass this via a slightly steeper line to the right.

The climb is about 40m long and easily manageable as a single pitch; however guidebooks often split it into two or even three pitches.

Location

This is the line up the blunt arete at the right of Morning Slab - can't be missed! Descent can be made from the left of Lunchtime Ledge off a tree anchor with two 50m ropes (a single 60m will not suffice). Alternatively, continue up one of the Evening Wall climbs: Bob's Climb would make a consistent continuation, or Petros is an excellent line if you want something more spicy. From the top you can walk down paths either side of the wall.

Protection

Protects well with nuts. Maybe worth taking a few cams - particularly in the smaller sizes - to give more options if you're a beginning trad leader. Ample opportunities to split the climb into multiple pitches. Belay from any of the trees on Lunchtime Ledge at the top.

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