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Routes in Monitor and Merrimac Buttes

Hollis Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1 PG13
Hypercrack on the Anchor Chain T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Hypothetical Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Keel Hauling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Merrimac Butte, The Albatross T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monitor Butte, The Plunge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Stand and Deliver T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Without A Net T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Earl Wiggins et al.
Page Views: 483 total · 8/month
Shared By: jakobi on Mar 20, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Keel Hauling is a blue collar experience on the southern flank of Merrimac Butte. The route begins on a low angle ramp with a thigh-width crack that gently steepens, leading to a chimney behind a very large flake. One's personal dimensions will dictate the difficulty of this section. Smaller folks may be able to squeeze through entirely, girthier one's may be forced out to the edge of the flake. Once atop the flake proceed up the lower-angled ramp to a ledge. You may have saved a large unit for the belay. Pitch two follows further up the ramp with moderate climbing to another ledge with a natural belay. Pitch Three starts with a short section of wide in a right facing corner. Climb up underneath the huge roof, traversing out right above your belayer with some exciting slab moves to reach the third belay and the summit.


Keel Hauling is located about mid point on the southern aspect of the Merrimac. It's the left and steeper of the two ramps that ascend the landform.


Standard rack; doubles with extra wide units. Three #6 Camalots wouldn't go unused. #4 Big Bro.



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