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[Redacted]
5.11d,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 15
votes
FA: unknown
California
> San Francisco B…
> Wine Country/No…
> Mt St Helena
> Bear
Description
Start to the right of Kill Uncle on Lower Arete and traverses into and continues on Kill Uncle after the first bolt. The traverse is probably the crux of this variation. Going left at the 3rd bolt gives a mellow finish; whereas, trying to go directly up or slightly right at third bolt bumps up the grade to 11d or 12a.
Protection
4 bolts to chains. Make sure and have an extended draw for first bolt to reduce rope drag. Stick-clipping first is recommended.
Off the Grid…
Kill Uncle start too. I may have indulged in too much stuffing and Halloween candy lately, but .12b it is not. Much harder. Nov 30, 2014
Colorado
Colorado
Off the Grid…
Crimping is actually one of my specialties. I've climbed and put up a lot of painfully crimpy routes over the years, so I don't think that was the problem.
Here's one of my latest ones if you want to go check it out. mountainproject.com/v/set-t…
Actually, I'm looking for a consensus on it's grade and would like for some strong climbers to go out there and see what they think. 12d might be a bit stiff.
Anyway, I know what a V4 problem feels like. I usually get them first go, but occasionally get one that's a real stickler and takes a second or third try. The start of Kill Uncle took a bit to get and is at least as hard as the crux of Silly Willy crack and Grand Delusion. Even though it's short, everybody I've talked to about it says, and I would have to agree that it's mid to hard 5.12. So .12c seems a fair estimate. Maybe you just don't know how strong you really are? A lot of people don't, especially when they're climbing toward the peaks of their careers, seriously. Jan 4, 2015
I don't find any significance in my failing to onsight Uncle Tom and the grade. I did it about two years ago when 5.11+ was at my onsight limit. Not every climb that shares the same grade with a route I've onsighted/flashed before will go down in the same fashion. In addition, I only fell once on my first go cause I miss-aimed going for the first 5.9 jug after having climbed all the 5.11 portion clean.
As much as I enjoy talking about grades, I do have to say Uncle Tom is one of the best lines at the crag and Kill Uncle even more so. Regardless of whatever people might think of the grades, the real beauty is in the climbs themselves. Jan 11, 2015
Bodega, CA
Bodega, CA
The beta is to stick clip the first bolt and climb thin arete pockets before moving left under the bulge (with heel-hook), reaching the frisbee like jug below the second bolt, and going directly up from the crimps at left. Doing it this way the climb is more sustained and has an additional low crux, rather than just one .l1c move at the third bolt. See photo diagram. Its a bit confusing, and I hadn't realized the book was incorrectly directing people up over that bulge/jug on the arete. I call that variation Easy Uncle and agree with your .11c grade for the upper crux only.
Bodega, CA
The pure finish to Uncle is to go straight through to the third bolt and the Hueco, clipping the fourth bolt and then it is easy terrain to the anchor.
In my opinion the best finish is to move right at the third bolt and climb up the face and crystal lined pockets through the fourth bolt of the arete, finishing on its anchor.
But you know what? No matter what you do, its fun climbing on cool rock and none of the grades or specific routes make a bit of difference. May 14, 2015
Never cared for it personally.
Originally, this crag went many years without any of these routes being named or graded... a bit hilarious how that shifted, as illustrated in the many posts above. Dec 7, 2023