All Locations > Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell… > Eastern Reef Area… > R Crags (Two Finger Canyon)
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Andy Ross. Paul Ross. Shingo Ohkawa.(Var Leads). March 12 2013|
|Page Views:||960 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||USBRIT Ross on Mar 19, 2013|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionA classic climb for the Reef, where the rock over all was very good. Although it appears as a traverse the climbing does not feel that way.
Paul's last first ascent in the US before he returned to the UK.
P1)Climb 20 feet then step left into a groove(small/med cams). Up this to a small tree then straight up passing three bolts to bolt belay. 180'5.6 (This anchor is the belay of the climb Afternoon Tea 5.7R that starts left of Bon Voyage)
P2) Move out left and head for some black rock passing a bolt, then tricky moves(#2 or 3 Wallnut/Rock helpfull)get you to the bolt belay for the climb PG Tips. Carry on past this anchor for another 50ft to a higher bolt anchor. 180'5.7
P3)Continue climbing left past three bolts to double anchors on top of large block. 160'5.7
P4)Continue up and then move left past first bolt. Then straight up past bolt to ledge. Clip another bolt to protect your second then walk along ledge to double anchors.170'5.8
P5)Some steeper climbing with a short section of not so great rock but well protected by 3 bolts lead to a one bolt and horn belay. 200'+ 5.7
Second will need to move up 15ft of easy ground for to reach belay.
Descent:-Scramble up and along the ledge for about 150' to an open area above the ridge. Here is double rap anchors (115')to the gully that leads back to the bottom of the canyon. Can also be done with a 70m rope. Watch the ends, its close.
Register just above the rap anchors.
LocationWalk to the far end of Two Fingers. The climb starts on the right about 50ft past the No Faith/Reef Sport Climb Slab.
It follows an obvious brown/white streak about 25ft below where the slab junctions with the vertical wall. The first anchor is visable from the ground.