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Routes in R Crags (Two Finger Canyon)

A Touch of Sushi . T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After The Fall T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Afternoon Tea. 5.7-R T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Anglo/Japanese Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bon Voyage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Color of Spring T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daffodil Dihedral T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Day of the Litheon., The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eccentric Spiderman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Escape, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fell on Deaf Ear T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Firth of Forth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Visit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Focus Pocus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gang of Four T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great White Fright. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great White Ridge, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moonbeam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Faith T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PG Tips. . T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peenut Gallery. T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Real Sport . 5.8+R S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scorpion Face. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Solstice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Spidermans Day Off .5.5R T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Team Ross. T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zig Zag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Andy Ross. Paul Ross. Shingo Ohkawa.(Var Leads). March 12 2013
Page Views: 960 total · 16/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Mar 19, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A classic climb for the Reef, where the rock over all was very good. Although it appears as a traverse the climbing does not feel that way.
Paul's last first ascent in the US before he returned to the UK.

P1)Climb 20 feet then step left into a groove(small/med cams). Up this to a small tree then straight up passing three bolts to bolt belay. 180'5.6 (This anchor is the belay of the climb Afternoon Tea 5.7R that starts left of Bon Voyage)

P2) Move out left and head for some black rock passing a bolt, then tricky moves(#2 or 3 Wallnut/Rock helpfull)get you to the bolt belay for the climb PG Tips. Carry on past this anchor for another 50ft to a higher bolt anchor. 180'5.7

P3)Continue climbing left past three bolts to double anchors on top of large block. 160'5.7

P4)Continue up and then move left past first bolt. Then straight up past bolt to ledge. Clip another bolt to protect your second then walk along ledge to double anchors.170'5.8

P5)Some steeper climbing with a short section of not so great rock but well protected by 3 bolts lead to a one bolt and horn belay. 200'+ 5.7
Second will need to move up 15ft of easy ground for to reach belay.

Descent:-Scramble up and along the ledge for about 150' to an open area above the ridge. Here is double rap anchors (115')to the gully that leads back to the bottom of the canyon. Can also be done with a 70m rope. Watch the ends, its close.
Register just above the rap anchors.

Location

Walk to the far end of Two Fingers. The climb starts on the right about 50ft past the No Faith/Reef Sport Climb Slab.
It follows an obvious brown/white streak about 25ft below where the slab junctions with the vertical wall. The first anchor is visable from the ground.

Protection

Cams 1/2" to 3"set of stoppers. Two 60m ropes or a 70m rope.
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
  5.9 R
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
  5.9 R
This was a really fun and exciting adventure. The first pitch had a lot of bad rock but then it got better. The second pitch was the scariest pitch to lead with the crux being 50+ feet past the first bolt before you clip the anchor at the top of PG tips and a big pendulum fall if your feet slip (exciting). After that the climb had bolts protecting all the hard parts. We would rate the climb at P1 5.6, P2 5.7R, P3 5.8, P4 5.9, and P5 5.8. We did not use any wires/stoppers on this climb I would lighten my rack and take a single set of tcus (#00to#3) and camelots (#.5 to #3) with a double on the #3 cam and # 3 tcu if you have it. 10 to 12 draws and slings. Thanks Paul, Andy, and Shingo for the great adventure climb. Dec 10, 2014
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Well I am now back in the UK..Thanks chaps for your nice comments. I really loved the desert and hope you all have a great time exploring its wonders. You are very lucky to have so much adventure just there for the taking... do not take it for granted.. it is far more rewarding than clipping bolts on sport routes or jumping on mattresses..as usual just winding you up.. or am I? ... All the Best... Paul Apr 4, 2013
tom303
Colorado
tom303   Colorado
Paul, you are an inspiration to so many of us. Thanks for all your hard work! Mar 29, 2013
Mike Kinney
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Kinney   Colorado Springs, CO
Thanks Paul for all the fine lines you’ve established at the Swell. One of my favorite places for a magnificent wilderness experience…gotta love those runout slabs!!!! Mar 26, 2013
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Thanks grk . Pulling up on one finger a couple of feet above a bolt is nothing compared with the risks involved in a true climbing adventure... rock or alpine... An experience that is about life itself..two sports that are now many many miles apart.I guess to each his own... Mar 22, 2013
grk10vq    
bon voyage pr! may the internet be strong in the UK.
i mean, who else will call people out for their lack of
adventure and chest pounding sport skills? ~thanks Mar 22, 2013
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Thanks Andrew...Maybe UK one day ? Mar 21, 2013
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Best wishes Paul. I've had some great adventures climbing your routes. Mar 20, 2013
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Thanks Perin ...Its been a great experience ...The desert has been a superb place to explore....wish I had done it when I was a wee bit younger.. now its back to the damp but beatiful Lake District and old friends.... Mar 20, 2013
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
Paul, I'm sad to see you go. Mar 19, 2013