North Ridge - Summer
Avg: 2.3 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Ervin McNeal, Phil Philbrook, Armin Furrer, Wilbur Watkins, Leo Harryman, and Ronald Sellers known as the "Boys from Bend"|
|Page Views:||2,708 total · 45/month|
|Shared By:||Paul Wellner on Mar 19, 2013|
|Admins:||Micah Klesick, Nate Ball|
DescriptionJust a couple additions to add for a summer climb
I parked at the PCT trail head and found the cairn on the left about 2.5 miles in on the PCT.
Turn left at the cairn and with some light bushwhacking for about 200 yards you'll find trials that lead up to the North Ridge.
Once on the ridge any obstacles you come to pass them on the West side which has less exposure.
At the base of the summit pinnacle you will encounter a loose gully. Follow the gully up left and eastward until you see a ledge up 10 feet and on your right.
Climb to the ledge and follow it still facing east until you see what I call the notch.
Once you pass through the notch you'll find a one foot wide ledge extremely exposed that you follow for about 20 feet.
At the end of this ledge there will be a slight gully on your right with nice holds, the crux but remember to test them well before trusting them. Climb this with a couple of un-nerving moves then it will ease up and scramble to the summit.
I climbed this route solo but... please use a belayer if at all possible as solo is not safe. These few difficult moves are only difficult due to the exposure and would be nothing in your living room.
The descent is straight forward using two existing rappel stations which will land you back in the gully.
Take US 20-126 to the Hoodoo Ski Bowl and Big Lake turnoff one mile west of Santiam Pass. Turn south off of 20-126 onto USFS 2690 and follow it south until you reach NF-811(NF500). Turn left and follow to the PCT trail head which will be on your right. This is a bit longer but easier to follow than the other description for the North Ridge route approach.