Type: Trad, 135 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 588 total · 7/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Mar 18, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

This route is described as three separate pitches in Matt's book - Prelude, Climax, Come Again. However, it can easily be done as two.

Start up the left side of Tofu Tower on big holds. Continue up the slab to a ledge with a bolted anchor. Clip a bolt and continue up on steepening stone to a horizontal below a blank face. Step left here and pull up and around the roof. Layback along a flake to another roof. Crux it out onto the face to the right with a wide selection of marginal holds. Continue up the slab using the dihedral and smearing. Belay at a narrow grassy ledge on two glue-in bolts.

There is a bit of a runout to the first placement of the 2nd pitch. Pull through long reaches to deep horizontals, trending right, and working those feet on tiny features. Topout at a great ledge with a gorgeous view and a bit of loose rock. Rappel twice with 60m rope or three times with 50m.

Location

On the Euro Wall, first route to the left of Tofu Tower.

Protection

Gear to 3"
316 steel anchors (2013)

Photos