Type: Trad, 135 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 419 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Mar 18, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

This route is described as three separate pitches in Matt's book - Prelude, Climax, Come Again. However, it can easily be done as two.

Start up the left side of Tofu Tower on big holds. Continue up the slab to a ledge with a bolted anchor. Clip a bolt and continue up on steepening stone to a horizontal below a blank face. Step left here and pull up and around the roof. Layback along a flake to another roof. Crux it out onto the face to the right with a wide selection of marginal holds. Continue up the slab using the dihedral and smearing. Belay at a narrow grassy ledge on two glue-in bolts.

There is a bit of a runout to the first placement of the 2nd pitch. Pull through long reaches to deep horizontals, trending right, and working those feet on tiny features. Topout at a great ledge with a gorgeous view and a bit of loose rock. Rappel twice with 60m rope or three times with 50m.

Location

On the Euro Wall, first route to the left of Tofu Tower.

Protection

Gear to 3"
316 steel anchors (2013)

Photos

Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
Some of the lead bolts look a bit mank. Anchors have been rebolted with shiny new 316 steel. Feb 3, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10c PG13
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10c PG13
All of the lead bolts have been removed, making this a spicy trad route. Sep 27, 2018
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, TH
  5.10c
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, TH
  5.10c
One of the best pitch I've climbed in Long Dong.

Gears were pretty solid so I'm not sure where the pg-13 comes from. Oct 21, 2018