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Routes in (9) Above the Waves

BA Insanity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cat's Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climax T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Sushi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cunning Linguist T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dangerous Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Doublethink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fillet Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Member T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happy Endings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lap Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Let's Do The Trad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love You Long Time TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ocean's Eleven T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Orange Juice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pearl Necklace T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Psycho Killer T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rastafarian Seabirds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Alley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tanz en Den Mai S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tofu Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet and Hairy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 135 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 349 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Mar 18, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

This route is described as three separate pitches in Matt's book - Prelude, Climax, Come Again. However, it can easily be done as two.

Start up the left side of Tofu Tower on big holds. Continue up the slab to a ledge with a bolted anchor. Clip a bolt and continue up on steepening stone to a horizontal below a blank face. Step left here and pull up and around the roof. Layback along a flake to another roof. Crux it out onto the face to the right with a wide selection of marginal holds. Continue up the slab using the dihedral and smearing. Belay at a narrow grassy ledge on two glue-in bolts.

There is a bit of a runout to the first bolt of the 2nd pitch. Pull through long reaches to deep horizontals, trending right, and working those feet on tiny features. Topout at a great ledge with a gorgeous view and a bit of loose rock. Rappel twice with 60m rope or three times with 50m.

Location

On the Euro Wall, first route to the left of Tofu Tower.

Protection

Gear to 3"

Both pitches:
Dangerous lead bolts (2002)
316 steel anchors (2013)

Photos

Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
Some of the lead bolts look a bit mank. Anchors have been rebolted with shiny new 316 steel. Feb 3, 2014