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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine

Bushido T,TR WI4+
Christmas Gully (Upper Area Start) T WI3
Dark Lord T WI6
Discord T WI4+
Hidden Pique WI4
Horn of the Ram T WI4-
Midlife Crisis T WI5+
Neurosis WI4-
Positive Thinking WI5-
Waterfall, The T WI4-5
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Type: Ice, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,210 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Mar 17, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Access Issue: Follow trail from old state campground Details

Description

This is a variation to the final pitch of Neurosis. It's one of the most beautiful and aesthetic lines on the cliff.

Climb the ice chimney to the top. It's steep at the bottom and the top.

To descend, walk left to the top of Neurosis and rappel that route with two ropes.

Location

From the giant ledge below the final pitch, walk right 100' to a position below an ice runnel that breaks through sheer rock walls.

It's possible to access this route by walking up the chimney next to the Poke-O Waterfall, walk right along the top of the cliff to the top of Neurosis, then rappel the top pitch of that route. Not really worth it just for this single pitch. Climbing Neurosis is the preferred approach; if Neurosis isn't in, then the Italian Traverse works well.

Protection

Ice screws. There is some rock gear, but less than what you'd want.

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