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Routes in Knob Lock

Knob Lock Chimney WI4
Magic Line WI4 M5
Too Tight for Pleasure WI4 M3
Unexpected Pleasure T WI4+
Waffles and Fried Chicken WI3 M5
Type: Mixed, Ice, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 403 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Mar 17, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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If you like super tight chimneys, this one is for you. It's really a variation to Unexpected Pleasure, as it shares the first section of that route.

P1: Go up the easy ice flow and into the gully. Continue up the gully to a tree belay on the left. Continue another 20', then break out of the gully on the right (1 awkward move here). Traverse right 30' to the base -- a position below the tight chimney 30' above you.

P2: Climb over a bulge and up another bulge to the entrance to the hanging chimney. Squirm up the chimney (hard at first, then easier) to a tree belay on the left.

Descent: Climb 10' up and left to a tree and rappel with two ropes down the Unexpected Pleasure gully.


Left side of the cliff, below an obvious flow of ice (the only one that reaches the ground) that drains a gully. Same as Unexpected Pleasure.


Small rock rack and some screws.