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Routes in 6. North End

Andromeda Weeps WI4
Compulsion WI4
Less than Zero Gully WI3
Psycho Icycho T WI2+
Road To Nowhere M10
Starquake T WI5
Tears of Joy WI3+
Type: Mixed, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Adam Dailey, March 3,2013
Page Views: 93 total · 1/month
Shared By: Adam Dailey on Mar 17, 2013
Admins: Dave Rone

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Description

Equipped by James Loveridge, this route starts at the top of the ice climb “Going Nowhere Fast” (WI 2). Chop a ledge for a comfortable belay stance, if this has not already been done. There are fixed anchors but you may have to bring long runners to extend them. Otherwise, a 2 or 3 screw belay will do. Start out on good torques to a bomber jug in order to clip the second bolt. The route gets steep quickly from here. Climb through the blocky roof to a good rest before the “business” takes place. From the rest, reach out long to a key hold in the center of the roof. Cut your feet loose and make a series of moves in order to pull the lip (crux). Once your feet are established underneath you again, climb about 10 meters on thin but secure holds to “nowhere” aka anchors.

Note: Will Gadd made the second ascent on the same day.

Location

This route is located in the North End of the corridor on Highway 11, just after the route "Tears Of Joy" and before the "Andromeda Weeps/Starquake" Area. Look for a very large blocky roof with a icy ramp underneath. Park your car on the side of the highway and hike in across the talus field towards the route.

Protection

Fixed Draws/Screws and long runners(If you wish to extend the fixed anchors) for the belay
Note: 70 meter Rope is needed to lower off the route

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