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Still Gettin' Booty

5.10a/b, Trad, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 31 votes
FA: Jonathan Garlough, Joshua Corbett, Tom Zimmerman
New Hampshire > Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall

Description

Start below the large chimney on Terror Crack. Climb the slab to a high black bolt. Gain a small tree ledge (bolt) and fire the crux slab to a flake. Follow the flake to the arete left of the chimney. Climb the juggy arete placing gear to a bolt anchor on top.

Location

Indigenous wall. Between Lost Heroes and Velvet Underground

Protection

Standard rack, 2 bolts, bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Baldy on the upper arete
[Hide Photo] Baldy on the upper arete
Jon reaching for the big holds on the first ascent.
[Hide Photo] Jon reaching for the big holds on the first ascent.
Still Gettin' Booty
[Hide Photo] Still Gettin' Booty
Ri Fahnestock on the initial crux moves.
[Hide Photo] Ri Fahnestock on the initial crux moves.
Jon belaying Josh to the top on the first ascent.
[Hide Photo] Jon belaying Josh to the top on the first ascent.
Baldy on the second ascent of Still Gettin Booty
[Hide Photo] Baldy on the second ascent of Still Gettin Booty
Tom just starting the crux
[Hide Photo] Tom just starting the crux
The lower crux
[Hide Photo] The lower crux
The flake above the cruxs
[Hide Photo] The flake above the cruxs
Just befor the steep part
[Hide Photo] Just befor the steep part
the top half
[Hide Photo] the top half
This is a shot of most of the roof
[Hide Photo] This is a shot of most of the roof

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] This route reminds me of a certain route up in Rumney Mar 17, 2013
Edge
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Nice job on the send! I can't believe it was dry after the previous night's snow. Mar 17, 2013
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Ya Loran by mid day 90% of the cliff was dry. What a fantastic route. Mar 18, 2013
tommyguns
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Yea I wasn't expecting to climb based on the snow the night before. With just a little bit of moring sun the snow was gone. This cliff is the ulimate microclimate and seems to be climable way before the other local spots.
Thanks again to Josh and Jon, this route is awsome! Mar 18, 2013
chinos Garlough
Ossipee, NH
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] i gave it another quick cleaning and climbed it again. It felt easier with it clean 9+/10a. Thanks Josh for cleaning this route up! a diamond in the lichen Mar 19, 2013
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Ahhh the elusive 9+.....Snadbagger! Mar 19, 2013
[Hide Comment] This was the best route I did at Longstack (so far). Easier if taller. Aug 5, 2013
ChrisN
Morro Bay, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Along with the Arete, one of my favorite climbs at Longstack. The two slab crux sections are completely safe with bolts at shoulder height. Easy to french free if you can't make the move. The upper juggy arete is super fun, protects well, and maybe goes at 5.7+ish? Great route. Aug 2, 2015
Sprax Lines
Brookline, MA
 
[Hide Comment] Yeah, I guess it's easier if you're tall, but to me it felt harder than the neighboring Velvet Underground. Had to keep calm to stay on when my foot skidded off near the first bolt. That was after bouncing off the ledge. Safe and sweet! Jun 7, 2016
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] Really fun route. I'm 6' tall and could barely put the quickdraw into the 2nd bolt from the ledge before committing up onto the nearly blank slab, so I feel bad for anyone shorter leading this. Would not want to take that fall. Have someone taller hang the draw for you, or bring something up to help. Jun 11, 2022