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Routes in Rolling Stone Wall

35 Miles Per Hour T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brown Sugar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Emotional Rescue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Head Trip T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Heart of Stone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Mick's Lips T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mickey Mantle Mantra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 67 total · 1/month
Shared By: kurthicks on Mar 16, 2013
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

A very enjoyable route--this is crag classic that features great climbing, good exposure, and clean rock throughout! Walk about 100’ right of the road curve sign to the base of a dark groove.

P1) Start in the gully with a hand crack in it. Continue up the obvious narrow brown streak of clean rock to an anchor.

P2) Continue up the brown rock to an anchor, occasionally clipping bolts.

P3) Another pitch on brown rock leads to an anchor.

P4) Trend right into a raspberry-filled gully and up to a ledge with a small bush and a belay station. It is possible to do two double rope rappels from here to the ground using a tree for the second rappel.

P5) Traverse under the orange overhang to a belay on a boulder covered ledge.

P6-7) Head up and right to the top, following the bolts.

Rappel “Sticky Fingers” with 2 ropes.

Location

Park as for Rolling Stone Wall.

Protection

Standard rack to 3". Extra quickdraws.

Photos

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Ky Dame
The West
Ky Dame   The West
Emotional Rescue is the escapable first pitch of this route, 5.7. Mick's Lips is a 2 pitch (after Brown Sugar's first 5 pitches) alternate finish to Brown Sugar, 5.7. Both are now listed under Rolling Stone Wall as separate routes. Oct 30, 2017

More About Brown Sugar

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