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Routes in Fat Albert Area

Fat Albert T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Possibly Dave Neff, early 1970's
Page Views: 904 total · 15/month
Shared By: kurthicks on Mar 16, 2013
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Long known as “Fat Albert” this route was originally called Exfoliation Expressway. Either way this is the most classic and unique climb on the Clearwater. This good beginner’s lead follows a clean dihedral for about 25 meters before tunneling underneath a natural arch to the belay. Don’t miss it! It is nearly impossible to top rope this route since lowering through the arch isn’t easily accomplished and the pendulum is nasty!

P1) Start up the low angle corner using hand jams (superb!) and laybacking until forced to undercling the roof at the top. Just as things start looking desperate, squeeze into the arch and pop out on the belay ledge.

Location

This route climbs the obvious arch in the middle of Lightning Dome. It sits directly above the main parking lot at mile 21.1.

Protection

Rack to 3” with doubles or triples in 2”-3”

Photos

Ky Dame
The West
  5.6
Ky Dame   The West
  5.6
Time Lapse of Fat Albert! Such a great route, fantastic movement that is insecure for the grade.

youtube.com/watch?v=3U3Nyqx… Oct 21, 2017