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Routes in Anfiteatro

Al Centro y Adentro T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coriolis Effect, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doppler Effect, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Filo La Aleta de Tiburon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flakes of Wrath T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Through the Looking Glass T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Todo Cambia T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 1900 ft, 16 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Chris Kalman, Chris Moore, Cooper Varney
Page Views: 3,036 total, 53/month
Shared By: Chris Kalman on Mar 16, 2013
Admins: Tony Yeary, Daniel Seeliger

You & This Route


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Details

Description

The Doppler Effect climbs the beautiful Northwest Arete of Pared del Tiempo in the Anfiteatro. The bottom two pitches are 5.6R dirty bush pulling, and not very good. But the fantastic third pitch dihedral will instantly make you forget the two approach pitches. After that, the route sticks mostly to the true knife edge arete, following 13 more pitches and tagging two mini-summits on the way to the beautiful summit of Cerro Laguna. The stellar 12b tips crack can easily be aided, or avoided altogether by climbing an easier pitch to the left. No matter how you go, the summit can be achieved by 5.10 C1 climbing. There are some slightly dirty pitches, but the route has a distinctly alpine feel, and the rock is always clean when you need it to be. One of a kind in Cochamo, this steep ridge route is not to be missed!

Location

Find specific approach/descent beta in the refugio.

Protection

doubles up to #3, #4 (Can leave after the pitch 7 OW), nuts, and a good variety of small camming units (purple tcu up to yellow) to protect the crux pitch however you like. An extra .75, or .5 may be nice for pitch 3 if you like to sew up laybacks. 12 slings/runners, one double length can be useful.

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