Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall

Beginner's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beginner's Slab T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beginners Top-Rope Face TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bullseye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Wave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Guido TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Iodine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercury S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
No Name Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pizza T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Razor Blade T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
ZigZag Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 626 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jac Frech on Mar 15, 2013
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Easy enough for kids except the last 10' at the top. Traverse left and roll over the top for the 5.6. If you go straight over the top it feels like 5.8R.

Location

Left side about 20' from end at a blocky left facing dihedral just right of small overhang.

Protection

Cam set for 1" and smaller cracks and/or nuts. 2 new anchors over the top.

Photos

Both sets of bolts are poorly placed and make setting an effective anchor difficult if you're like me and don't TR off QuickDraw anchors. Nov 4, 2017
This is a fun climb that all three of us were able to send on top rope to the ledge about 10 feet from the top of the crag. I was able to complete the route traversing left at the very top. The beginning is relatively easy for beginners. The last 10 feet is challenging and leaves the climber vulnerable to a a pretty good swing if you take a fall. There are two sets of bolted anchors at the top of this route. One set is older and oxidized and the other is newer and looks a little better. We used the newer bolts with quick draws and hung a sling over the edge of the rock where we put two opposite and opposed carabiners. Feb 22, 2016
kenr  
Lots of interesting thoughtful moves.

Many beginners will find the low-mid crux (about 25 feet up) perplexing.

But almost all beginners will find the upper traverse leftward not only perplexing but strenuous for finger-grip. And with any fall subject to substantial side-swing if done as top-rope from either of the cliff-top bolt-pair anchors.

Better for real beginners is to try the "Beginners Top-Rope Face" route first, which offers less-complicated lessons in beginner techniques.
Then plan for beginners who want to try also this "Crack" route, to finish it below the top of the cliff, at the same little platform as the finish of "Beginners Top-Rope Face". Sep 21, 2014