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Routes in Rockshop Wall

Andromeda V3 6A
Bo├Âtes V2-3 5+
Draco Dwarf V1 5
Magellanic Cloud V2 5+
Milky Way V3 6A
Rockshop Traverse V7 7A+
Sculptor Dwarf V3 6A
Sextans V0 4
Ursa Major V2-3 5+
Type: Boulder, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,317 total · 22/month
Shared By: David Cummings on Mar 14, 2013
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the huge traverse on almost all steep jugs for over 200 feet. It feels natural to climb it right to left, but left to right would also be fine. It is so fun and only 10 minutes from GJ!

Location

From Whitewater, head west up Unaweep for a couple miles, park at the first big pullout on the right. The traverse is right next to the parking lot.

Protection

Pad.

Photos

Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  V7-
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  V7-
I have posted a new pic of where the route starts. For clarification, there are definitely moves harder than V2, as you will realize as you climb it. Ultimately there are 3 technical cruxes, that come in the first 70 feet. The cruxes are as follows:

1) Eight feet from the start, which is on two half pad edges, then moves into a nice long horizontal shelf....then the business begins. Get your left hand over as far as possible, make a reach over to an arching crimp/sidepull, adjust your feet, make a longer reach out right to a sloping edge with thumb catch, move left hand to thee arching crimp-sidepull or mono, then bump right to the crimp/pull under the steepness, then adjust your feet, lock-up your core and bump down left and low to the block. Relax, the crux is now over. This crux is approximately V5 to V5+.
2) The second crux is about 15 feet from the end of the first, but is much easier. Bump down from the obvious rail, into two ticked edges and make a long reach right to another jug.
3) The start of the third crux is 12 feet from the roof and end right below it. Move into two slots, get a sidepull under the eave, bump your feet up high make a long reach right through two edges, reach to a jug, set your feet and brace to catch a left hand edge, then match what your right hand is on. Make a long reach to a crimp/sidepull in the 45 degree corner, cross through to the jug under the roof and start the third crux.
4) The last crux is hanging on for another 70 feet. Nov 7, 2013
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  V7-
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  V7-
It definitely makes a difference if you start in the wrong place. Over the years, since this first appeared in R&I in the '90s, the start has become a little less obvious. The start is actually one of the three crux moves, as you have to drop from high to low in an off balance move. The next two cruxes come approximately 18 feet later and then about six feet before hitting the roof area. Nov 2, 2013
Matt Rauen  
 
Pumpy long traverse and a great workout with challenging crux moves. Sep 15, 2013
David Cummings
Grand Junction, CO
 
David Cummings   Grand Junction, CO
 
I just tried that left to right true start, those moves are def harder than anything else, I could see linking all of that being V7 for sure Aug 9, 2013
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  V7-
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  V7-
When featured in Rock and Ice years ago in an article by Luke Laeser and Ed Strang, this was rated V7. It actually starts left to right, as far left as possible butt dragging, at the top of a small dirt dune. The first moves are the hardest with smaller holds. If these are cut off and started farther right, the grade becomes easier. Then, there is a V3ish move transitioning from a higher traverse, to a lower section, then a pumpy transition V3-V4 before hitting the roof...then just hold on until the end. Apr 27, 2013