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Disneyworld

5.7, Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 20 votes
FA: Brian Phillips 8/12
Connecticut > Eastern Highlands > Ross Rocks > 7. N End

Description

This route starts in an obvious open book before traversing the smooth, right side wall to the corner then up and around the large roof. Interesting, sustained 5.7 climbing past two bolts and eventually to the top. A 60m rope just made it down in one rap.

Location

Toward the left side of the North End area there is an obvious open book capped with a large roof. Usually marked with a large amount of bird crap from nesting crows.

Protection

G - Good gear abounds and two bolts protect an area which would otherwise offer no protection.

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The route
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

JD1984
Leominster, MA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know the status of the two bolts? 5/2/13 May 2, 2013
Dmadison
Jackson, Wy
[Hide Comment] They were still there after la mesa got chopped so unless someone went back in the last month or so and destroyed them then they should be there. May 6, 2013
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] The bolts are intact.

This climb is sweet!! The crux is at the top. There's a nice arete you have to go up, before the top. It is easily protected with a cam or two, and has fairly definite holds -- although a tricky-ish sequence. Fun stuff! This is what makes it 5.7.

Beautiful rock, varied movements, pretty serious exposure, and a fantastic beautiful setting!! Aug 30, 2013
Toni Stey
[Hide Comment] The bolts on this climb (also Something Dirty and Don't Bleed on Me) were chopped sometime before 2014/06/24. Jun 25, 2014
JD1984
Leominster, MA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I was just planning on leading this too.... Thanks for the heads up. Jun 30, 2014
M Mobley
Bar Harbor, ME
[Hide Comment] I have a bucket of used motor oil that would improve some of KNs favorite top ropes Jul 10, 2014
JD1984
Leominster, MA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know if the bolts have been replaced on this route? Dec 29, 2017
M Mobley
Bar Harbor, ME
[Hide Comment] No is what I have heard. It was fun while it lasted, maybe someone will step up again? Dec 30, 2017
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
[Hide Comment] Bolts are not needed on the route. There was one critical one protecting a long ground fall but that is now protected by a new bomber piton. If the piton gets chopped the crack where it went will take a red .1 red X4 Camalot (smallest X4) or equivalent. The reason for the piton is I tried to keep it safe for the 5.7 leader who may not have tiny, hard to place cams because if that cam blows you will fall 30 feet and hit the ground. The rest of the route protects well. Dec 30, 2017