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Routes in Party Wall

Bed Spins T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Devil's Lettuce T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Losa TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 501 total, 9/month
Shared By: JD1984 on Mar 13, 2013
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

The left of the two cracks which go up the right side of the Party Wall. Fixed anchor is visible at the top.

Steep for the grade but loaded with huge bucket holds. The rock was surprisingly solid and overall it was an enjoyable route.

Location

When you are looking at the party wall from on top of the large, flat boulder there are two obvious cracks going up the right side of the Party Wall. A fixed anchor is visible at the top. The left crack is the one you want. The right hand crack goes at 5.7 and is very rotten and wet.

Protection

G rating. This climb ate a whole rack of BD Camalots.

Photos

Joe M.    
Yes, that is the line I was looking at. Brian, let me know when (if) you guys go out there. I would love to give that roof a try. Thanks. Mar 19, 2013
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
I don't have any photos of the roof on the north end with the crack in it. Next time I'm there I'll take one. Here is the roof next to the 5.8. I marked it in red. I'm not sure if it will even go. If it does it is 5.harder-than-I-can-climb.

Mar 19, 2013
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Any photos? I like hanging upside down. . . Mar 19, 2013
JD1984
Worcester, MA
 
JD1984   Worcester, MA
 
I was eyeing the roof-crack to the right of Disneyworld. Above my grade, but certainly climbable! Looks great! Mar 16, 2013
Joe M.    
I may have to try and hook up with you guys there soon to give one or both a try. Thanks. Mar 15, 2013
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Joe,

The 5.8ish route with the small overhang on the topo has gone free many times. I assume you are talking about the big roof to the left of that route. It has not gone free. Good project for you.

There is also another big roof at the north end between "Disneyworld" and "Something Dirty" that may go free if you like hanging upside down jamming a crack.

Brian Mar 15, 2013
Joe M.    
Has the roof gone free??? Mar 14, 2013
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
No name. It has been top-roped and led many times over many years so the first ascent is lost to history. There are some ancient pitons on this wall on the roof route. The AMC climbed here back in the 1960s. Mar 14, 2013
JD1984
Worcester, MA
 
JD1984   Worcester, MA
 
Does anyone know the name of this route? Mar 13, 2013