Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 614 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 12, 2013
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description

This route was an endeavor to do. Climb the 5.8 Unknown to the ledge and anchors. From here, you clip a small head in a seam and do a difficult move to a 1/4 buttonhead. From this stance, I did some delicate traversing to a seam where I could get some gear. Keep traversing until you can climb up to the slight ledge below a bulge and some more 1/4"ers. Some steep and strenuous climbing leads to small gear and easier terrain. Continue up until it is easy to traverse back left and to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

The rock is good, but the wandering nature of the climb makes it a route finding adventure.

Location

This route is above Unknown, 5.8, and right of Unnamed, 5.11. Look for the old bolts on the face.

Protection

Slings! Lots of slings or you will be slayed by the rope drag. (2) #3s for the first part of the Unknown, 5.8. A set of C3s, nuts, and a few fingers to small hands.

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