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California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Central Gorge
> Great Wall of China
Osama bin Gotten
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.9 from 9
votes
Routes in Great Wall of China
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Aurora S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Beijing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Beijing Extension (11c 35m/12b 40m) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Borealis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Chicken Feet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chicken Feet/Silk Road Extension S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Child of Light S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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China Doll S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Confusing Confucius S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cornercopia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Corona S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Corona Extension S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Dim Sum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Enter the Dragon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Feng Shui S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fortune Cookie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Geisha Girl S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ghengis Khan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Go For The Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Good Fortune S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Happy Ending (Geisha Girl Extension) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Heart of the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kung Pao S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Maiden China S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Manchurian Candidate S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mandarin Orange S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Marco Polo's Boys Go Dirty Dancing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Osama bin Gotten S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Panda-monium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Peking Duck S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shogun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Silk Road S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Terracotta Warrior S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tiananmen Square S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tsing Tao S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tsunami S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wrath of Khan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Yellow Peril S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Yellow Streak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Yin Made Me Do It S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 145 ft (44 m) |
| FA: | Tony Sartin, May 2011 |
| Page Views: | 2,274 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Tony Sartin on Mar 11, 2013 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
This is an extension of Heart of the Sun. Continue straight up above the anchor passing 3 bolts to a large ledge below a steep headwall. Clip a bolt and bust steep moves to the last right facing jug just before the angle lessens. Instead of climbing straight up to the bolt on the slab above, traverse left to a welcomed rest around the corner. Reach right to clip, and then continue further left into a right facing dihedral. Climb as high as you can in the corner before traversing back right to clip the next bolt. Continue up past two more bolts to finish at a three bolt anchor/lower-off.
With a 70m, lower back down to the Heart of the Sun anchor. Pull and lower again to the ground. Not sure if a 60m will reach to LPL. With a 60m rap twice. You could also do this climb as a second pitch if you don't mind a hanging belay. In that case, a 60m works fine to lower. As a second pitch, it has 10 bolts.
With a 70m, lower back down to the Heart of the Sun anchor. Pull and lower again to the ground. Not sure if a 60m will reach to LPL. With a 60m rap twice. You could also do this climb as a second pitch if you don't mind a hanging belay. In that case, a 60m works fine to lower. As a second pitch, it has 10 bolts.
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