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Chastity Crack

5.11, Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3.7 from 15 votes
FA: Bryan Bird and Dave Jones 4/10/2007
Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Watchman
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This is an excellent 3 pitch route, that does not see much traffic mostly due to the 60-90 minute approach, if it were on the road side, it would be classic. It is on the north side of the watchman tower feature.

Pitch 1: (5.9) Start in a straight in hand crack 50 feet on the left side of a 50 foot tower to a belay stance. (no bolts top of pitch 1)

Pitch 2: (5.9+) Left facing hand crack to a roof with good face holds, to a short arete and to a bolted belay stance.

Pitch 3: (5.11) starts as splitter straight in fingers on two cracks, then that turns into hands and its a little steeper through the last section, end in a bolted belay.

Descent: Rap the route 2 60M ropes

Protection

3-4 each .5-4"
1 5"
2 60M ropes

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is the hand crack at the end of pitch 3 looking down to the right you can see the belay ledge of pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] This is the hand crack at the end of pitch 3 looking down to the right you can see the belay ledge of pitch 2.
Alex leading p2
[Hide Photo] Alex leading p2
Alex following p3
[Hide Photo] Alex following p3
pitch 2, September 2010. Photo credit Joe Stern
[Hide Photo] pitch 2, September 2010. Photo credit Joe Stern
Britny Andrew following pitch 3, September 2010
[Hide Photo] Britny Andrew following pitch 3, September 2010
3rd pitch oh so good, September 2010
[Hide Photo] 3rd pitch oh so good, September 2010

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nate Watkins
Cambridge, Ma
 
[Hide Comment] I didn't think that the approach was as long or as bad as some of the other long approaches in Zion. The best way we found to get to the crack was to go straight back to the buss terminal behind the visitors center. There's a bridge crossing an old river bed. Hop down into the river bed and follow that for about a mile. when the river bed starts to to climb up a bit scramble over the big boulders for about a 50 yards. You should see the climb straight to your right. Then start bush whacking your way up the hill. There's one or two really good animal trails to follow on there.

This climb was way fun and I recommend it for sure. First pitch is good. Second pitch was super fun and enjoyable with good face holds and jams. The third pitch was great fingers and has it's own little spiciness awaiting you. May 12, 2014
Rob WardenSpaceLizard
las Vegans, the cosmic void
[Hide Comment] was out there today 7/7/15 wanting to replace the cord/webbing with steel cable and quicklinks. got rained on at the top of the 2nd pitch. if you climb this please take the other set of cables and links from the 2nd pitch, to the top of the 3rd. thank you Jul 7, 2015
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
 
[Hide Comment] Rack beta:
(1x) red c3
(2x) .4 - #3
(3x) #1, #2
(1x) #4
(1x) yellow & orange metolius
(3x) runners

Curious why the first pitch anchors don't have rap rings. If they did, then you could rap the route with one 60m. I saw a piece of a stuck rope in pitch 1, perhaps that's a clue. But I would suggest to bring a set of quick links and short chains and 1 rope.
Pitch 3 is **** Dec 4, 2017
F r i t z
North Mitten
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Linked this with Locksmith for a full-value day. One hour approach to Chastity, then 40 minutes of mildly unrighteous bushwhacking to Locksmith (be sure to check out the cool dry lake at the amphitheater on the way), then full-on rock glissading down the wash back to the parking lot.

Single sixty works for each rap. The crack switch on p3 is phenomenal.

The crux fingercrack is short, no need for more than doubles of fingers. The beautiful steep hands splitter that takes you to the chains after that is mostly tight #2's. Mar 3, 2022
W K
 
[Hide Comment] All time! There is an anchor on top of p1 now, so we rapped with one 70 Apr 16, 2022