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Chastity Crack
5.11,
Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3.7 from 15
votes
FA: Bryan Bird and Dave Jones 4/10/2007
Utah
> Southwest Utah
> Zion NP
> Watchman
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Description
This is an excellent 3 pitch route, that does not see much traffic mostly due to the 60-90 minute approach, if it were on the road side, it would be classic. It is on the north side of the watchman tower feature.
Pitch 1: (5.9) Start in a straight in hand crack 50 feet on the left side of a 50 foot tower to a belay stance. (no bolts top of pitch 1)
Pitch 2: (5.9+) Left facing hand crack to a roof with good face holds, to a short arete and to a bolted belay stance.
Pitch 3: (5.11) starts as splitter straight in fingers on two cracks, then that turns into hands and its a little steeper through the last section, end in a bolted belay.
Descent: Rap the route 2 60M ropes
Protection
3-4 each .5-4"
1 5"
2 60M ropes
[Hide Photo] This is the hand crack at the end of pitch 3 looking down to the right you can see the belay ledge of pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] Alex leading p2
Cambridge, Ma
This climb was way fun and I recommend it for sure. First pitch is good. Second pitch was super fun and enjoyable with good face holds and jams. The third pitch was great fingers and has it's own little spiciness awaiting you. May 12, 2014
las Vegans, the cosmic void
Chevy, Silverado
(1x) red c3
(2x) .4 - #3
(3x) #1, #2
(1x) #4
(1x) yellow & orange metolius
(3x) runners
Curious why the first pitch anchors don't have rap rings. If they did, then you could rap the route with one 60m. I saw a piece of a stuck rope in pitch 1, perhaps that's a clue. But I would suggest to bring a set of quick links and short chains and 1 rope.
Pitch 3 is **** Dec 4, 2017
North Mitten
Single sixty works for each rap. The crack switch on p3 is phenomenal.
The crux fingercrack is short, no need for more than doubles of fingers. The beautiful steep hands splitter that takes you to the chains after that is mostly tight #2's. Mar 3, 2022