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Rosy Palms
5.10c/d,
Trad, 30 ft (9 m),
Avg: 1.3 from 4
votes
FA: Sandi Epeldi - 6/2001
Idaho
> W Idaho
> Black Cliffs
> Tall Cliffs
Access Issue: 2025 Seasonal raptor closures: 3/11 Update: Carbody canyon closed from Pabst smear (west side) to Macabres roof (east side). Scary canyon, highway face, face canyon, Nixon head, and steep wall are closed.
Details
Adding new bolts, new anchors, and new routes at the Black Cliffs are currently NOT ALLOWED pending a BLM environmental assessment. Significant trail work is also on hold. Please contact the Boise Climbers Alliance with questions or for additional information
Description
Short but sweet! Scramble up the blocky terrain to the overhanging roof crack and commence jamming! The crack varies from hands to fists.
Sandi Epeldi's book gives this route 5.11C, but when we climbed it we felt that it wasn't harder than 5.10. The jams are solid the whole way, and if you look around there are a few key feet that help. Whatever the grade, it's a fun climb with great pro!
Location
This route is located on the other side of the talus field at the right end of the Tall Cliffs. Once you cross the talus it should be obvious.
Protection
Pro from 0.75" to 3". Anchor is 1 bolt that can be backed up with gear.
To get down, you can top out and walk over to the Muchachas Borrachas anchors and rap from there. Be careful when leaning over to clip them.
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Sonora, CA
Bring finger-sized gear to back up the lone bolt for the follower.
Sketchy getting down via Muchachas rappel (scree). Another option would be to drop your line down Jet Screamin' though I haven't tried this. Mar 12, 2013