Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Tony Sartin, Terri Condon 2009
Page Views: 804 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tony Sartin on Mar 8, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is basically an alternative, easier start to Twinkletoes. Rope up where Switchbacks Direct and Betty both share the same start, which is 15 right of Twinkletoes. Climb straight up 20 feet to the SD/Betty first bolt. Clip and continue above to a large horizontal undercling flake. Undercling left (Betty continues up and right at this point) following SD up and left to where it meets the original Switchbacks at the base of an obvious, small right facing dihedral where you can get some gear. At the top of this corner, the Switchbacks moves up and right to a belay shared with Bam Bam at the base of a small left facing arch/flake. Cary Granite follows Twinkletoes up and left to a perfect, easy to spot little arch that takes great gear. Continue up and slightly right passing a couple of underclings with good gear until you reach a bolt. The bolt line to your left is The Great Gazoo. A 5.10 section passes the bolt and veers up and right to a good ledge. Easier, run-out climbing straight up passes another ledge and then leads to an overhang protected by the final bolt. Get established above the roof (crux) and continue up to a two bolt, ring anchor. This is also the anchor for The Great Gazoo.


Begins on Betty and finishes on Twinkletoes. 2 options for getting down. Single rope rappel left, to the top of Fred's first pitch and then one single rope down from there. Or, do a double rope rappel.


3 bolts and a single rack. Two bolt ring anchor at 180 feet.


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Not sure how this gets 4 stars, its kinda a mess. Would have been better to finish on the ledge above the bolt. Above that is R 5.8 and then a baffling 5.11b move at a bolt which can be totally bypassed by going right into Fingertrip. From that ledge I also went left and did the Great Gazoo finish via the last bolt, only one piton in the right slanting corner, didn't look good either. Jul 21, 2018