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Routes in Tighten Up Tower

Lighten Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+
Loosen Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tighten It Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+
Type: Trad, 60 ft, Grade II
FA: Ben Kiessel and Bill Grasse
Page Views: 605 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Mar 7, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Climb up the wide hands to fists crack to enter a big pod.
Rest and compose yourself for the 5.11 OW exit.

Two bolt anchor
(We opted to put in our own anchor since Jeremy made it sound like his line was not very rappel friendly. At least without a stick clip or a fixed line.)

Location

This route climbs the analog crack of 'Tighten it Up'.

This route is accessed by hiking across the land bridge to the NNW of the tower. Once across the land bridge and at the base of the tower carefully scramble around the Eastern side of the tower. There is some big exposure but it's only 4th class. That being said a rope might make you feel better. There is a big ledge on the NNE side of the tower and two cracks splitting the tower. 'Loosen Up' is on the left.

Protection

Single #.5-1 Camalot
Double #2 Camalot
Triple #3 and #4 Camalot
Single #5 Camalot

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
A good VOG route with mostly clean, solid rock and physical, splitter crack action. There is a little soft rock and hollow bits, especially at the finale, and a decent bit of silt on the inside of the crack. The last bit after the chimney pod is burly, and was a touch too wide for fists for me.
I placed a #1 (but a #2 would have been better), but nothing smaller could possibly be placed. The #5 only went in one spot, and was crunched; an old #4 would be better, or a baggy new #4.
The 4th class class traverse at the end of the land bridge is very exposed and a bit heady. A rope wouldn't really do any good, as there are no gear possibilities. Mar 9, 2015
Ben Kiessel  
 
We had just climbed Hidden and McYetta's Loaf and I was talking to Jeff Widen on the phone about the plan for the next day. I mentioned this tower and he said that Jeremy already got the FA of the tower. Sure enough. Jeremy snaked it out from under our noses.

It sat there ignored for years and then got two routes put up on it within 2 weeks. Mar 8, 2013