Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Jiri Vyhlidko, Adela Jandikova April 2009
Page Views: 1,139 total · 15/month
Shared By: Devin Fin on Mar 7, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Boulder move off the ground in to a roof fist slot that tapers down to tight fingers. Lock that finger down, reach left to a "jug" and pull yourself on to a great ledge. From there its good fingers for a move or two, stem left foot and grab some less then great rock out left which gets you to somewhat of a rest/good stem. Work up some crap rock in to a crisp and i mean crisp #2 camalots for 60 feet to a rest under the last crux! 00 C3's and some wicked stemming gets you over the roof now tips to the top...

Location

Left of Binou's Crack 5.9 I mean left of Half Man/Half Alligator Shark 5.13 R. Its right next to a sweet tree. No Plaque.

Protection

(5) blue tcus (3) 1 inch (5) #1 camalot's (1) #2 camalot (3) .4 camalot (1) #4 camalot (1)#3 camalot (2) .75 camalot

Photos

Devin Fin
DURANGO
  5.11-
Devin Fin   DURANGO
  5.11-
could some one else get on this rout so we could get a solid conformation on the grade Slim n my self think 10 hard? so i posted it at 11-? with the creek getting nice i hope it see's some more traffic.. thanks DF
Mar 8, 2013
Dustin B
Steamboat
  5.10+
Dustin B   Steamboat
  5.10+
Good one! Even with the slight choss, I thought this one of the better routes in the area.

took 1-#1C3, 1-#2C3, 2-#.5 C4 Camalot, 2-#1, 2-#2 ,1-#3.

Thanks for posting this up. Apr 26, 2013
Hi Devin,
I am from Czech rep. and I did this rout with my girl ADELA JANDIKOVA. . . in April 2009 and official name is JARNI ZVRAT-KY 11+. . . . . . I can send to you some pic.....

thanks Jiri Vyhlidko Sep 24, 2013
Devin Fin
DURANGO
  5.11-
Devin Fin   DURANGO
  5.11-
sweet thanks for the info .. cheers for finding such a gem... im going to put a good bolt at the anchor with a chain ... as the pitons are bomber but a bitch cuz every one who has a lil cord try,s to "fix" the anchor up. DF Sep 25, 2013
Steve Tarnowski
Aztec, NM
  5.11-
Steve Tarnowski   Aztec, NM
  5.11-
Great route - it has something for everyone. Note that the rack listed under "protection" is pretty good - the route has 60 feet of crisp #1 camelots, not #2s as it says in the description Mar 12, 2018
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Karl Kelley's guidebook lists this as a Jay Smith route that ended up higher. 2 days ago